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Standard Route
Southwest Ridge. (Class 2-3) This is the standard route to the summit. Although many inexperienced people climb this route each year, do not underestimate its potential difficulties. The route climbs more than 5,400 feet in less than 4.5 miles and there are many spots from which you can fall significant distances. When the route is covered with snow, it is best left to experienced mountaineers.
From the end of Mount Borah Road [(B)(6)] at roughly 7,200 follow the well-worn trail through the sagebrush-covered slopes and into timber. After 0.5 miles the there is a new section of trail which climbs around the head of a gully and tops out on a small saddle at 8,600 feet (east of Point 8714). See Map. The trail now becomes a climbers route which runs due east toward Point 10632, zigzagging and climbing steeply to treeline. As you leave the timber, the ridge becomes more defined and easier to follow.
The route continues up the southwest-trending ridge toward the main crest at Point 11898. The final 300 feet of elevation gain to the main crest is known as Chickenout Ridge. See Map.
These two photos were shot midway between treeline and the beginning of Chickenout Ridge: The first is the view up and the second the view down the ridge.
Chickenout Ridge climaxes in a narrow, knife-edged col just before the main crest. Although the route is well marked, many people are reluctant to cross the lower, rocky-ribbed section of Chickenout, which can be treacherous if it is topped by snow or ice. The final snow ridge is crossed by first down-climbing a 20-foot pitch and then carefully kicking steps in the snow.
This step from Chickenout to the knife edge is the crux.
While an ice ax is recommended, there is often a wide trail across the snow made by other climbers.
Once across Chickenout, a good trail follows the ridge on the west side of Point 11898 to the saddle on its north side. See Map. From the saddle, the ridge can either be climbed directly or by following a fair trail on the ridge’s west side through broken rock bands and talus to the summit.
The trail crosses over lots of loose rock, which can be exhausting. Take plenty of water and expect the ascent to take between three and twelve hours, depending on the abilities of your party.
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