2002 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and Jeff Smith

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" height=90 BGCOLOR="#99CCFF" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="04176bc1egdyqn.gif"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#FFFFCC" FACE="Arial" ><B>Idaho: A Climbing Guide</B></FONT><B>   |   </B><A HREF="index.html" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Idaho: A Climbing Guide"><U><B>home</B></U></A></div> <div> <B>2002 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and Jeff Smith</B>   |   <A HREF="id172.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="2003 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and MikeTe"><U>2003 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and MikeTeschner</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id185.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="2004 Climbs"><U>2004 Climbs</U></A></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" height=390 BGCOLOR="#99CCFF" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="04176ba3.gif"> <div> 2002 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and Jeff Smith</div> <bR> <div> The first line we put up is the <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Arial" >"north east face"</FONT> 4 pitches of 50-55 meters and not harder than 5.10a. The route follows a line of corners and some thinner cracks up the center of the wall. This climb was done clean, ground up we left no gear behind.  </div> <bR> <div> 1st pitch (5.10a) climb a smooth, vertical arete just right of a smooth gray  slab up to a ledge. Small gear and somewhat run out.  </div> <bR> <div> 2nd pitch (5.9) climb a ramp to a crack up to a ledge.  </div> <bR> <div> 3rd pitch (5.10a) climb the vertical finger/hand crack to a ledge.  </div> <bR> <div> 4th pitch (5.10a) climb a crack straight above the belay ledge to the top.   </div> <bR> <div> The second climb is the <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Arial" >"north/north east face"</FONT> 5 pitches (5.10d) This climb starts at the prominent great gray slab in the corner of the slab and the vertical wall. It was done ground up as well. We left 2 pitons behind.  </div> <bR> <div> 1st pitch, (5.7) start at a gray slab by a big rock and climb up to a ledge. Belay at a small cave like roof.  </div> <bR> <div> 2nd pitch (5.10b) climb the thin vertical face/crack to a fixed piton. A short traverse to the left and straight up to a ledge.  </div> <bR> <div> 3rd pitch (5.9) climb the corner with little protection to the next ledge. A good belay spot is at some big boulders on the ledge.  </div> <bR> <div> 4th pitch (5.10d) climb the face straight above the belay protected by 1 fixed pin. The pitch follows a line of flakes and small ramps to a ledge.  </div> <bR> <div> 5th pitch (5.10) several options to climb to the summit. We climbed the most promising line up a finger crack. Traversing slightly left to a small overhang to gain the summit.  </div> <bR> <div> This route is a bit more challenging to protect and the crux pitch is somewhat committing.  Getting down is easy too. The climbs top out on the ridge. The ridge is solid and you can place a good anchor anywhere. You can walk off either side and return to the base of the wall.</div> <bR> <div> The third route, <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#FF0000" FACE="Arial" >Dream Catcher</FONT>, climbs a steep short wall at the fare right side of the wall. </div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="21268c20.jpg" border=0 width="360" height="450" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <div> 1st pitch climb easy very good granite 5.6 up to the big ramp. You can 4th class up the ramp and skip the first pitch to. </div> <bR> <div> 2nd pitch climb a very steep, thin crack system, very committing, to a tree anchor. 2 pins are left in the pitch. 5.12d/13a. </div> <bR> <div> 3rd pitch climb from the tree belay up a steep corner and follow the obvious arete to the top. 5.10+.</div> <bR> <div> <B>More information on Dreamcatcher.</B></div> <div> this weekend Mike Teschner and I climbed my last years route Dream Catcher. </div> <div> This climb has not seen much attention since I put it up solo in 2002. We </div> <div> climbed the wall beginning from the big ramp in three pitches instead of </div> <div> two. If you climb as a 2 person party it makes more sense this way. I added </div> <div> 2 bolts to the 5.13 crux pitch to prevent people from falling onto the micro </div> <div> stoppers and getting hurt up there. We also added one bolt and one piton at </div> <div> the, what is now last pitch to protect the 5.11b face section. During my </div> <div> solo ascent I rated this part 5.10+ turns out that it is 5.11b.</div> <bR> <div> First pitch: as is easy scramble up to the ledge system, 5.6.</div> <div> Second pitch: very difficult thin face with 2 bolts to a run out thin crack </div> <div> protected by a piton to finger locks and lay backs. Very sustained small to </div> <div> medium stoppers and up to #3 TCU's, 5.13a.</div> <div> Third pitch: a short vertical thin hands, wide finger crack at 5.10+ #3 and </div> <div> up TCU's, up to a small belay ledge at the sharp arête, one fixed piton at </div> <div> the belay.</div> <div> Fourth pitch: a short blank face and arte at 5.11b, one bolt, to a sharp </div> <div> white arête to the top.</div> <bR> <div> Here is the topo of the route:</div> <bR> <bR> <div> <IMG SRC="227bfc00.gif" border=0 width="703" height="448" ALIGN="BOTTOM" HSPACE="0" VSPACE="0"></div> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>