Hyndman Peak
Dean Lords supplied the following information on a new route that he and Abe Dickerson climbed on Hyndman's NE face.

"The Travis Michaelis Memorial Route"
Hyndman Peak: Northeast Face
WI 4, M5, (1800 feet)
May 14th, 2004


Abe Dickerson and I completed a new ephmeral ice route on the Northeast Face of Hyndman Peak. This route starts on the obvious thin ice smear flowing from a snow bowl in the middle of the Northeast Face. One sixty meter pitch of very thin WI 4 leads to a rock belay at the base of the snow bowl. Two pitches of 50° to 60° snow and rolling WI 3 slabs lead to another hanging snow slope. The fourth pitch climbed this hanging snow bowl and finished in a narrow ice runnel below a headwall of ice and rock. The next section was the crux and was passed in two 30 meter pitches of technical mixed climbing on thin vertical ice and some exciting sections of dry tooling and mixed climbing up to M5 in difficulty. The seventh pitch started with a WI 3 corner which lead to a steep snow ramp. The eighth pitched crossed the Northeast ridge and a narrow 60° couloir was climbed to the summit after appox. 400 feet.

The entire route is threatened by massive cornices hanging from the East Ridge.