2004 Climbs

<body topmargin=0 leftmargin=0 marginheight=0 marginwidth=0> <table cellpadding=0 cellspacing=0 border=0><tr> <td valign="top" height=90 BGCOLOR="#99CCFF" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="04176bc1egdyqn.gif"> <div> <FONT SIZE="5" COLOR="#FFFFCC" FACE="Arial" ><B>Idaho: A Climbing Guide</B></FONT><B>   |   </B><A HREF="index.html" TARGET="_top" TITLE="Idaho: A Climbing Guide"><U><B>home</B></U></A></div> <div> <A HREF="id171.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="2002 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and Jeff S"><U>2002 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and Jeff Smith</U></A>   |   <A HREF="id172.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="2003 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and MikeTe"><U>2003 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and MikeTeschner</U></A>   |   <B>2004 Climbs</B></div> <div> </div> </td> </tr><tr> <td valign="top" height=390 BGCOLOR="#99CCFF" TEXT="#080000" bgproperties="fixed" background="04176ba3.gif"> <div> 2004 Climbs</div> <bR> <bR> <div> Mike Stoger and friends keep putting up new routes on the North Face of Jughandle. Here is Mike's lastest e-mail. </div> <bR> <div> <B>(1)  Renegade:</B></div> <bR> <div> Tom,</div> <bR> <div> I was up on Jughandle on Saturday (6/19/04) together with Adam and Brad. We had a true </div> <div> alpine approach with lots of snow. My goal was to finish the "Renegade" and </div> <div> we almost turned around after the first pitch as a hail storm soaked us the </div> <div> ropes and the rock. After the sun came back out and dried the rock for most </div> <div> part we climbed on and finished the route.</div> <bR> <div> 1st pitch starts just left of the prominent gully at a one bolt belay. ( We </div> <div> had to start there because of the amount of snow). Climb the buttress to the </div> <div> ledge using some TCU'S and 2 bolts for protection. Stay right of the wide </div> <div> crack for the best climbing. Belay at the ledge with one bolt and one piton. </div> <div> 5.10c.</div> <div> The second pitch is the "money pitch" . Climb the double overhang to a </div> <div> ledge. Start out easy up to the large overhang, split by a crack. Place some </div> <div> pro and clip a bolt before you engage into two bad jams and do a full body </div> <div> dyno to a hold at the lip of the overhang. Clip a piton and muscle yourself </div> <div> up into easier ground. Climb the face to the next overhang. The second </div> <div> overhang goes at 5.12b, 1 bolt and 2 pitons.</div> <bR> <div> Pitch 3 starts out easy, straight up from the belay until you see a bolt in </div> <div> a vertical slab. Clip this bolt and climb a short 5.10a section to the </div> <div> anchor. Be careful not to fall at the 10a or you will hit the ledge. From </div> <div> the third pitch is 4th class climbing to the top.</div> <bR> <div> The Renegade bypass climbs the dihedral left of the crux pitch at 5.9+. </div> <div> There is an optional starting pitch as well just left of the first pitch.</div> <bR> <div> Mike</div> <bR> <div> <B>And yet another route. (2) Brave Like a Girl:</B></div> <bR> <div> I put in a new climb on Jughandle yesterday together with Adam after</div> <div> starting the first pitch in July. "Brave like a Girl" is climbing the face</div> <div> <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#6633CC" FACE="Arial" >left of the Wall of the Oceanman</FONT> <A HREF="id172.htm" TARGET="_top" TITLE="2003 CLIMBS BY Michael Stoger and MikeTe"><U>(See 2003 climbs)</U></A> <FONT SIZE="3" COLOR="#6633CC" FACE="Arial" >to a ledge under the great yellow</FONT></div> <div> overhanging wall. Pitch 2 climbs the yellow overhang at 120 feet and 40 feet</div> <div> overhanging to the 3 belay of the Oceanman. Pitch 3 is identical with the</div> <div> Oceanmans 4th pitch. The last pitch is bypassing the original gully pitch</div> <div> on the right using the arete.</div> <bR> <div> pitch 1: 5.11c  4 bolts and small to mid cams.</div> <div> pitch 2: 5.13a bolts some small cams.</div> <div> pitch 3: 5.11 one pin and small cams.</div> <div> pitch 4: 5.10 one bolt one pin.</div> <bR> <div> Mike</div> <bR> <bR> </td> </tr></table></body>