Lost River Mountain: Hyper Gully Route

The following information is from Pat Lang of Pocatello

Recently on 16 Oct 04 a friend of mine, Henning Krebs, and I went to go up Super Gully on Lost River Peak. From the general parking area on the Mackay side of the mountain we wandered up through the trees and what not up to the point where you can see the gully structures leading up the high ridges. We crossed into the debris at the bottom of this structure and stayed right as we moved up. We climbed to top of the gully that we were in, passing a couple of 4th class sections on white loose rock about two thirds of the way up. Once at the top of the gully we were cliffed, with our only option being a move left (north) into a tight gully that exits after a hundred feet or so onto a small platform. After a short quick low fifth class move on the left side of the platform, we found ourselves on the ridge that leads to the false summit on Lost River Peak. We followed the ridge to the false summitt and continued onto the real summit. On return we descended the Super Gully.

The gully we went up is the first major gully to the right of Super Gully as you look up at the mountain from the Lost River side. I believe our ascent was probably a first ascent because we saw absolutely no sign of any other human passing. At no point did we find disturbed loose rock, scratched rocks, footprints, trash, etc.

Henning Krebs Photo. Lost River Mountain. See Below for photo showing Hyper Gully Route.

I propose the following for your book, should you publish yet another edition, which I hope you will.

Hyper Gully: proceed as described for access to Super Gully.

Once at the bottom of debris (scree) field, instead of crossing the debris field left (north) to the small ridge that provides access to Super Gully proper, head due east up a rapidly narrowing gully. As you proceed up you will cross some white rock bands, which are full of loose rocks and are best crossed on the left side (4th class).

Henning Krebs Photo. Hyper Gully Route is marked in black.

After passing these bands stay in the ever narrowing gully heading for a small gate at the top of the gully. The last several hundred yards are extremely loose.

At the gate which measures about 5 ft across turn left (north) and scramble up a narrow rock filled gully to a small platform having a small rock wall (7ft) on its left side.

Climb over this wall (4th-5th class) to arrive onto a wide ridge that leads to a false summit of Lost River Peak. From the false summit follow the ridge to the cairn summit of LRP. To return, reverse your route to the false summit and then drop down its scree field west face.

After several hundred yards you will be in the Super Gully which has a well worn `path' down.

Keep up the good work.

Henning Krebs Photo. Pat Lang approaching the summit after climbing up

the Hyper Gully Route.