The First Ascent of La Fiamma 1962

La Fiamma is an impressive rock spire located on the southwest shoulder of Packrat Peak. It was first climbed by Fred Beckey, Steve Marts, and Dan Davis in 1963. See IDAHO, SAWTOOTH RANGE, LA FIAMMAin the American Alpine Journal.September 23, 1962. Kaden Platt obtained a copy of Dan Davis’ journal entry for the climb which is set out below.

La Fiamma. Derek Percoski Photo

La Fiamma (the first ascent)

Located in the Sawtooth Range of Idaho, near the end of the ridge leading south from Packrat.

From the upper notch of the pinnacle climb up the broken up face to a notch on the north side of the pinnacle. From this upper notch traverse around the west face on a flake to a chimney on the SW side of the pinnacle. Climb the chimney until you can climb out onto the west face of the minor pinnacle. Then climb the minor pinnacle to its top, from here one can step over onto a small ledge of the major pinnacle. Then climb the last part of the major pinnacle with the aid of a bolt and several pitons on its west side.

The climb was a difficult and very exposed class 5 + 6 with an occassional lack of piton cracks.

The chimney was very narrow.

Cold and very threatening weather conditions.

Climbed with Fred Beckey and Steve Marts switching leads.

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