Completing the Wyoming Trifecta, 1982


The Wind River Mountains forms a large section of the Continental Divide running southeast from Yellowstone National Park to South Pass of Oregon Trail fame. The range is filled with beautiful granite peaks, spectacular lakes, flowers and a multitude of challenging climbing routes. My love affair with the Wind Rivers began on my first visit in 1981 during a backpacking trip in the headwaters of the Green River. During the trip I discovered that the range had a lot in common with my first love, California’s Sierra Nevada Mountains but also had a distinct Rocky Mountain flavor. Geologically the backbone of the range is granite. Climate wise the range is pure northern Rockies. Thus, the two ranges are paternal and not identical twins.

The impetus for this trip was my desire to climb the three highest peaks in Wyoming. I climbed the Grand Teton, the second highest peak, in 1981. Based on my study of guidebooks by Finis Mitchel-Wind River Trails, Joe Kelsey-Climbing and Hiking in the Wind River Mountains; and Orrin and Lorraine Bonney-Field Book The Wind River Range, I knew the other two peaks were located deep in the heart of the Wind River Range. I also learned that Titcomb Basin, one of the premier high mountain basins in the world, was the prefect basecamp for Gannet Peak, the highest summit, and Fremont Peak, the third highest peak.

Photos of Titcomb Basin are enough to propel most mountaineers to make the long trek into this mountain shangrala. So, I recruited Dana Hansen, my sister Sandy and her friend, Charles, to spend a week backpacking in the range. We met in Pinedale, Wyoming and on August 7th, we started our hike from Elkhart Park, one of the highest trailheads in the range. The route in has a lot of up and down and around segments. On Day One we hiked to Seneca Lake in nine miles.

The view from the trailhead.

Break time.

Break time.

The next day we hiked the last six miles into Titcomb Basin which covers a huge expanse of ground and includes, the three large Titcomb Lakes. The basin is huge and we were able to find an excellent campsite 200 vertical feet above and east of the middle Ticomb Lake. We had a great view, running water and privacy. We stayed in this campsite for five nights.

Island Lake and Fremont Peak.

Island Lake.

Approaching Titcomb Basin.

The first Titcomb Lake.

Titcomb Basin.

Looking over all three lakes toward Dinwoody Pass.

Titcomb Basin.

Our third day we hiked to Indian Basin which was the next drainage to our southeast and back roughly six miles. Indian Basin was devoid of people and nearly as scenic as Titcomb Basin.

Sandy and Charles returning from Indian Basin.

Elephant Head.

Mistake Lake.

On Day Four Dana and I climbed Fremont Peak, 13, 745 feet. The peak was named after, who else, John C. Fremont. Fremont climbed the peak in 1842 thinking he was climbing the tallest peak in the Rocky Mountains. We climbed the peak by it’s broken Class 3 southwestern face. To reach the peak which was due east of our camp we had to cross a low ridge that divides Titcomb Basin from Indian Basin and then cross the basin to the base of the peak. The route was steep, with a lot of large broken blocks, but even in 1982 marked by cairns. We encountered at least a dozen other climbers while we were on the mountain.

Fremont Peak. Our route ascended the rib to the left of the snowbank just right of center.

Titcomb Basin from Fremont Peak.

The Fremont Glacier from Fremont Peak.

On the summit of Fremont Peak.

Day five was our day to climb Gannett, 13, 804 feet, via the Gooseneck Route. Reaching the peak from Titcomb Basin involves a long, up and down climb, glacier travel and potentially technical obstacles on Gooseneck Ridge. Our approach trek took us up and over Dinwoody Pass, 12,800 feet. The south side of the pass is steep and it was icy. We had to use our crampons and ice axes. From the pass we descended more moderate slopes to the Dinwoody Glacier and then traversed across the Dinwoody losing more elevation to the spot where it intersects the Gooseneck Glacier. The climbing starts at this point. The route climbs up the Gooseneck Glacier to a point where you are north and west of the Gooseneck (a pinnacle on Gooseneck Ridge). We were fortunate as the condition of the bergschrund was such that we found a relatively easy crossing west of the Goosneck. The bergschrund was not very wide and we managed to cross it without too much difficulty (although we did belay each other in this spot).

Dinwoody Pass is on the skyline just right of center.

Looking north toward Dinwoody Pass from the base of Fremont Peak.

Titcomb Basin from Dinwoody Pass.

Once we gained a footing on Gooseneck Ridge our route climbed up the ridge on good cramponing snow to Gannett’s summit ridge and then to the summit. We had a strange, deflating encounter on the summit which I wrote about in an article in Summit Magazine: Tales of Two Mountains.

Gannett Peak from Dinwoody Pass.

Just below Dinwoody Pass.

A crevasse on the Dinwoody Glacier.

Approaching the intersection of the Dinwoody and Gooseneck glaciers.

At a minimum you will need an ice axe and crampons for this route. Prudence dictates that you rope up for the glacier travel and depending on the condition of the bergschrund you may need pickets or a couple of ice screws to set up a belay.

Once we were on the summit, the crux was still ahead of us. The crux being the long walk back to our camp. Our route covered ten miles round trip. We started at 5:30 am and got back at dusk.

Our route from the base of Dinwoody Pass to the summit.

The highest point in Wyoming.

The long walk home.

Our sleep that evening was interrupted by one of the finest lightening shows imaginable as a storm came in after midnight and treated us to thunder and lightening for over an hour. At times there were so many concurrent flashes that the basin was lit up like day time. There was a hardly a drop of rain.

The next day we took it easy, slept in and took only short walks around the basin.

Taking in the view on our rest day.

All good things must come to an end and we started our long hike out. We hiked 12 miles and camped at Miller Lake which left us just three miles on our last day.

Of all the trips I have taken into the Wind River Range this one was the only trip blessed by great weather. August is the best time to travel in the range but I have been snowed on in August on two different occasions. The only bad weather we had was the delightful thunderstorm that was really more entertainment than anything. Our round trip and day hikes covered 53 miles.