Fred, Pete and Jack’s Big Sawtooth Adventure by Ray Brooks

The South-East-face of Fishhook Spire, at top center.  Becky route follows line of weakness to notch, at right of hook, then goes behind the spire. Ray Brooks Photo

The Summer of 1949: Fred Beckey, Pete Schoening and Jack Schwabland went into Idaho’s Sawtooth Range to finish “some business” with two peaks that had repulsed their climbing attempts the previous Summer. They also had a shopping list of other unclimbed peaks in the Sawtooths. Their “Idaho adventure” may well be the most exciting epic in Idaho’s climbing history. Fred … Continue reading

Sawtooth Mountaineering by Frank Florence

Frank Florence on the East Face of Borah.

Editor’s Note: Sawtooth Mountaineering was Boise’s first climbing shop. It was founded by Lou and Frank Florence. The shop was an important link between many of Idaho’s premier climbers and the development of Idaho’s technical climbing scene. Bob Boyles (quoted on Page 23 of the book) noted the shop’s importance as a hub for local climbers, stating “The thirty or … Continue reading

Chimney Rock Off-Belay Magazine 1972

Off Belay Magazine was THE climbing magazine of its day. The following article had an extensive discussion of Chimney Rock [Off-Belay Dec. 1972 Vol. No 6.]. Ron Klimkow (1936-2012), the author, was a professor in the Music Department at the University of Idaho and an accomplished climber. … Continue reading

The First Winter Ascent of Mount Heyburn

Mount Heyburn covered in deep snow at the time of the climb. Mark Sheehan Photo

The first Winter ascent of Mount Heyburn was made by Gordon Williams, Mark Sheehan, Jacques Bordeleau, Chris Puchner and Joe Saviers on December 30, 1974. They climbed the peak from the fifth Bench Lake via the Northwest Ridge. Mark Sheehan recalls: “It was a real slog, breaking trail though waist deep powder on a 45 degree slope. Once we got … Continue reading

Mount Borah: Dirty Traverse and Northeast Ridge Variation – East Face by Bob Boyles

Bob Boyles provided the following history and, with Wes Collins, the route descriptions (below) for these two East Face Routes. I first visited the East Side of the Lost River Range (The Pahsimeroi Valley) in 1972, while working on a helicopter contract for the Forest Service. Flying through the range provided me a view that few ever get to see. … Continue reading

An 1884 Ascent of Mount McCaleb by J.D. Martin

[Editor’s note: J.D. Martin was an early settler of the Lost River Valley. As he was nearing his 90th year, he wrote a memoir covering the early history of the Lost River area which was published in installments in the Arco Advertiser. This portion covers his ascent of Mount McCaleb in 1884. It also references other ascents of mountains in … Continue reading