1975 Fatality on El Capitan

El Capitan from Alice Lake.

[Editor’s note: This August 6, 1975 article by UPI was published in the Idaho Statesman. No other details are known.] Climber, 24, Dies After 70-Foot Fall UP International -A mountain climber from North Carolina. died in a Boise hospital Tuesday from injuries he suffered in a fall Sunday on El Capitgn in the Sawtooth Wilderness. A hospital spokesman said Tom … Continue reading

The First ascent of the North Face of Snowslide Peak by Art Troutner

The north face of Snowlide Peak. The V-climbed by Troutner and Whitman is just right of center. John Platt Photo

[Editor’s Note: Art Troutner is a pioneering Idaho mountaineer who was involved in many firsts in the 1970s including the first winter ascent of Mount Borah. In this article, he writes about a diffcult first ascent of the Lick Creek Range’s most compelling north face.] On July 4th, 1973 Bill Whitman, 19 years old and I, Art Troutner Jr., age … Continue reading

Off Belay Magazine —The Sawtooth Issue 1975

Off Belay Magazine was “the” climbing magazime of its day. The following articles contained the most extensive discussion of the Sawtooth Range yet published. Special thanks to Ray Brooks for providing the scans. (Click on the scans to enlarge.) … Continue reading

The First Winter Ascent of Mount Regan

The following newspaper article covers the first winter ascent of Mount Regan. Joe Leonard has written an extensive account of this climb. See The Lost and Wandering to read Joe’s account which is an excerpt from his  2016 memoir The Son of Madam of the Mustang Ranch. Read more about Joe in the Contributors section of this website. Click on the … Continue reading

Wayne Boyer

Wayne Boyer was a compatriot of Lyman Dye and one of the founders of the EE DA HOW Mountaineers an eastern Idaho climbing club. Boyer, along with Dye and Art Barnes, climbed many difficult routes in eastern Idaho including his first ascent of the East Face of Mount Borah in 1962. … Continue reading

Bill March

Bill March was a British mountaineer and ice climber who, along with Rick Albano, is credited with the first winter ascents of Leatherman Peak and White Cap Peak in 1975. He came to Idaho at the request of his friend Harrison “H” Hilbert and was associated with the Idaho State University Outdoor Program in the 1970s. The program has a good biography of him … Continue reading