Elevation: 11,839 ft
Climbing information for this 11er peak is located on pages 252 to 253.
The information in the book is a bit confusing. First, the two routes listed basically cover the same route (i.e., utilizing the peak’s south ridge) but from two different starting points. The book references Rick Baugher’s South Face route but provides no further detail. Thus, below you will find revised route descriptions for the routes in the book, descriptions for the South Face and the Northwest Gully routes, and a link to the West Face Direct route first climbed by Pat McGrane, George Reinier, and John Roache in 2009.
Brocky Peak is the 22nd highest Idaho summit and one of the most difficult Idaho peaks to climb. The peak is a conglomeration of knife-edge ridges, steep walls, and sketchy gullies. There are simply no easy routes to the top from either an access standpoint or a climbing perspective.
Routes and Accesses
Wildhorse/South Ridge Route, Class 4-5
The Wildhorse Route set forth in the book is accurate but for clarity should have been named the Wildhorse/South Ridge Route. This route climbs from Wildhorse Canyon to the South Ridge utilizing a rib that starts at 10,000 feet and climbing to point 11387. Then follow the south ridge route to the summit. Please use the book for a more detailed description.
Access information is on page 259, (C)(1).
Box Canyon/South Ridge Route, Class 5
This route is listed in the book and also utilizes south ridge. However, unlike the Wildhorse/South Ridge Route, this route follows the entire south ridge. Gain this ridge from Upper Box Canyon Lake. This route encounters class 5 terrain is a very time-consuming way to reach Brocky’s summit.
Access information is on pages 258 and 259, (B)(1)(a). Note: the trail over Johnstone Pass is no longer maintained.
South Face Route, Class 3+/4-
This route was mentioned in the book and a route line was shown on an accompanying photo, but no details were included. The route was first climbed by Rick Baugher in 1994. This route is the “easiest,” in a relative sense, known route to the summit.
Obtain this route from either Wildhorse Canyon or Box Canyon, understanding that both approaches cross difficult ridges. From Wildhorse Canyon, you must cross Brocky’s south ridge south of Point 11387 and then descend toward the small lake before climbing the South Face to the summit. To reach the South Face from Box Canyon you have to hike up Hyndman Creek, cross Johnstone Pass, descend Box Canyon and then ascend the unnamed drainage that climbs northwest up to the South Face.
Brett Sergenian climbed the route in 2018. Brett reports: It took me nearly 11 hours to reach the summit. The elevation gain was only 4800 feet but the terrain and deadfall made for a long day. The steep gully I used to gain the was class 4 but relatively short. The gully was around 300 feet below the summit and put me back on the south ridge. It was narrow and steep but appeared to be the easiest route up the south face. Brett’s GPS track is set out below.
Accesses to Wildhorse Canyon and Box Canyon are described on pages 258 and 259.
Photo Trip Report
Judi Steciak and Carl Hamke climbed the route in 2009. They approached by making the long backpack trip in over Johnstone Pass. There photo essay showing the climb is set out below.
Northwest Gully Route, Class 4+
This route climbs up the northwest side of the peak’s west face using the south gully system. This route was descended by Wes Collins in 2007 after he had climbed the peak via the South Face. Wes spotted webbing in the gully so there was likely an ascent prior to his descent. The first known ascent was by John Platt and Brian Mahon in 2011. The route is rated class 4, however, several places are better rappelled than down climbed.
Access is from Wildhorse Canyon, (C)(1) on page 259.
Use the link below to read John Platt’s trip report.
West Face, Grade II, 5.4
In its upper reaches, this route is located to the right of the Northwest Gully Route. The West Face route is discussed in detail on page 41 of Pat McGrane’s Wildhorse Classics climbing guide. Please follow the link to read about this route in detail.
Access is from the end of Wildhorse Road, below Mustang Peak, approaching from the
East Fork of Wildhorse Creek.
USGS Topo: Standhope Peak
Mountain Range: Pioneer Mountains
First Ascent Information:
- First Ascent Year: 1994
- Season: Summer
- Route: Upper South Ridge
- Party: Chuck and Dave Ferguson
- Other First Ascent: South Face
- Year: 1994
- Season: Summer
- Party: Rick Baugher
- Other First Ascent: West Face
- Year: 2009
- Season: Summer
- Party: Pat McGrane, George Reinier, John Roach
- Other First Ascent: Northwest Gully
- Year: 2011
- Season: Summer
- Party: First descent Wes Collins 2007. First ascent John Platt, Brian Mahon
Longitude: -114.051867 Latitude: 43.756831