Devils Bedstead East

Elevation: 11,865 ft
Prominence: 845

Climbing and access information for this peak is on Page 245 of the book. Use this link to see Pat McGrane’s Wildhorse Classics Guide which includes a comprehensive guide to the technical routes on this big peak.


Devils Bedstead East is the 20th-highest peak in Idaho and is perhaps one of the state’s top 10 summits from an aesthetic standpoint. Look down this page for a new technical route climbed by Pat McGrane and Nick Brown in 2012 on this peak’s impressive East Face. Use the link below to read Larry Prescott’s trip report on his ascent of the standard route, complete with outstanding photography. USGS Phi Kappa Mountain

Devils Bedstead East from Boulder Creek.

Devils Bedstead East as viewed from Boulder Creek.

Devils Bedstead East from Rock Roll Peak.

Devils Bedstead East as viewed from Rock Roll Peak.

Devils Bedstead East from Summit Creek.

Devils Bedstead East as viewed from Summit Creek.

The Devils Bedstead East from Hyndman Peak.

Devils Bedstead East as viewed from Hyndman Peak.


Northeast Ridge Route

Here are some photos taken on this route. I will try to post a few more later.

Ascending the route mid-mountain.

Ascending the Northeast Ridge Route mid-mountain.

This shot was taken roughly half way up the Northeast Ridge.

This shot was taken roughly halfway up the Northeast Ridge.

This photo is looking up into the sun toward the summit from midway on the Northeast Ridge Route.

This photo is looking up into the sun toward the summit from midway on the Northeast Ridge Route.

Larry Prescott provided his GPS track for his 2016 climb.

Larry Prescott provided this GPS track for his 2016 climb.


East Face MegaDihedral (III, 5.8) Route

Date of Climb: October 7, 2012

Climbers: Pat McGrane and Nick Brown

This route is in the middle of the East Face of Devils Bedstead East above Washington Lake. The route starts at the lowest point of the face on a perfect granite slab. It quickly becomes vertical for two 5.8 pitches to a large scree-covered ledge (with evidence of goats). Traverse Class 2 terrain about 200 feet to the right and scramble as high into a huge scary-looking dihedral. This is the MegaDihedral. Start belaying again. The climbing is easier than it looks from below. Two 5.7 pitches lead to a platform with no anchors. From there, it is two low Class 5 pitches to the ridge. Protection is not abundant on the last four leads. From the ridge, scramble to the top in about 10 minutes.

East Face of Devils Bedstead East - Mega Dihedral Route (III, 5.8).

The East Face of Devils Bedstead East – Mega Dihedral Route (III, 5.8).

Mountain Range: Pioneer Mountains

Year Climbed: 1989

Longitude: -114.152313   Latitude: 43.798592

Photos:

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