Devils Bedstead East

Elevation: 11,865 ft
Prominence: 845

Climbing information for this 11er peak is found on page 245. Use this link to see Pat Mcgrane’s Wildhorse Classics Guide which contains a comprehensive guide to the technical routes on this big peak.


The Devils Bedstead East is the 20th highest peak in the state and perhaps one of the state’s top ten summits from an esthetical stand point. Look down this page for a new technical route climbed by Pat McGrane and Nick Brown in 2012 on this peak’s impressive east face. Use the link below to read Larry Prescott’s trip report on his ascent of the standard route, complete with outstanding photography,

Devils Bedstead East from Boulder Creek.

Devils Bedstead East from Boulder Creek.

Devils Bedstead East from Rock Roll Peak.

Devils Bedstead East from Rock Roll Peak.

Devils Bedstead East from Summit Creek.

Devils Bedstead East from Summit Creek.

The Devils Bedstead East from Hyndman Peak.

The Devils Bedstead East from Hyndman Peak.


North East Ridge Route.

Here are photos taken on this route. I will try to post a few more later.

Ascending the route mid-mountain.

Ascending the route mid-mountain.

This shot was taken roughly half way up the Northeast Ridge.

This shot was taken roughly half way up the Northeast Ridge.

This photo is looking up into the sun toward the summit from midway on the Northeast Ridge Route.

This photo is looking up into the sun toward the summit from midway on the Northeast Ridge Route.

Larry Prescott provided his GPS track for his 2016 climb.

Larry Prescott provided his GPS track for his 2016 climb.


East Face MegaDihedral (III, 5.8) Route.

Pat McGrane and Nick Brown did this route on October 7, 2012. It is in the middle of the east face of DBE above Washington Lake. The route starts at the lowest point of the face on a perfect granite slab. It quickly becomes vertical for two 5.8 pitches to a large scree covered ledge (with evidence of goats). Traverse 2nd class about 200 feet to the right and scramble as high into a huge scary looking dihedral. This is the MegaDihedral. Start belaying again. The climbing is easier than it looks from below. Two 5.7 pitches lead to a platform with no anchors. From there it is two low 5th class pitches to the ridge. Protection is not abundant on the last 4 leads. From the ridge, scramble to the top in about 10 minutes. Pat McGrane and Nick Brown did this 6 pitch route on October 7, 2012 and called it the MegaDihedral (III, 5.8).

East Face of Devils Bedstead East - Mega Dihedral Route (III, 5.8).

East Face of Devils Bedstead East – Mega Dihedral Route (III, 5.8).

Mountain Range: Pioneer Mountains

Year Climbed: 1989

Longitude: -114.152313   Latitude: 43.798592

Photos:

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