Elevation: 10,080 ft
Climbing and access information for the Goat Perch is found on pages 180 and 181.
Contents: Weekend Warrior and Great Gulley. (IV, 5.8, M1-2)
Weekend Warrior and Great Gulley. (IV, 5.8, M1-2) Steve Lysne provided the following route information. On June 5th, 2004, Dave Hopper and I made the first ascent of Weekend Warrior on the Goat Perch, Sawtooth Mountains, Idaho . The route climbed the narrow, north-east facing couloir between the Goat Perch and Eagle Perch for approximately 400 feet (snow or ice to 60º) before exiting south onto the north face of the Goat. A short pitch of easy mixed climbing (50 ft) led to the conspicuous dihedrals on the north face. The first rock pitch ascended the right dihedral, crossed the arête, and climbed the left dihedral before reaching the bulging, wet, and mossy crux of the route. The second pitch continued up and left on steep rock to a small belay stance at a pine tree. Pitches three and four were on 4th class terrain, negotiating steep, broken rock to a good platform just below the summit block. A scramble reaches the high point. 16 hours round-trip to car. On June 4th, 2005, Dusty Perkins and I made an ascent of the Great Gulley on the same mountain (IV 5.8, M 3; this line may have been climbed but no known record exists). Start as above, but continue up the couloir, past the exit on the north face to Weekend Warrior, to the col between the Goat and Eagle Perches (250 ft). The route becomes very steep at top and is guarded by a large, overhanging cornice. Aid or free wet rock on the left, or climb snow and alpine ice (also to the left) depending on conditions (up to 85º), around the cornice. From the top of the couloir travel south (left) to the large gulley below the northwest face of the Goat and up easy mixed terrain (Class 4), or talus and scrub-brush, depending on conditions (300 ft) to the base of the summit pitch. 100 feet of excellent climbing on beautiful granite leads to a good rappel station with fantastic views into the heart of the Sawtooth Mountains! Two rappels and downclimbing to the west led to the top of couloir, which we rapped and downclimbed. Best to follow your ascent route. 13.5 hours round-trip to Redfish Lake Inlet camp. Conditions in the couloir can vary greatly. In 2004, the snow was soft and wet (with obvious difficulties) and in 2005 it was hard and we front-pointed most of the route. Snow in the couloir can last until September and conditions may be very different when the couloir is thin, the snow in the large gulley is gone, and the rock is dry. Good pro exists throughout. Steve Lysne Boise, Idaho