Horstman Peak

Elevation: 10,470 ft
Prominence: 1,410

Climbing and access information for Hortstman Peak is found on pages 167 to 169. Updated September 2019


Horstman Peak is located up Fishhook Creek. It is one of the most popular Sawtooth summit with a variety of routes to the top ranging from a long Class 3 scramble to steep snow and ice climbs. The book describes seven routes on the peak: South Ridge, Sickle Couloir, North Face, Northwest Buttress, Northeast Ridge, North Ridge Spur and the East Face. First ascent information is listed below.

Horstman Peak from Fishhook Creek.

Horstman Peak from Fishhook Creek.

Horstman Peak viewed from Redfish Lake.

Horstman Peak viewed from Redfish Lake.


South Ridge Route. Class 3

The South Ridge Route is the easiest way to the summit but it involves the longest approach. Below you will find a few route photos.

The south ridge is accessed from the west via highest Stephens Lake. Climb to the ridge top between the peak and Fishhook Spire. Once you reach the ridge you will have to find your way up and down toward the peak on a good goat trial.

The south ridge is accessed from the west via highest Stephens Lake. Climb to the ridge top between the peak and Fishhook Spire. Once you reach the ridge you will have to find your way up and down toward the peak on a good goat trial.

Horstman Peak's south east face.

Continue along the ridge until you reach this view of Horstman Peak’s south east face. From this point traverse toward the summit under the tower on the left.

Climb this line to the summit.

Climb this line to the summit.

The summit.

The summit.


Sickle Couloir, II, Snow and Ice Climb

Perhaps the most sought after route on Horstman was pioneered by Kirk Bachman. The route is detailed on page 168. John Platt’s trip report is linked below. It contains many photos showing this steep route.

Additional first ascent information is as follows:

Northwest Buttress: Kirk Bachman and R. Young

 

 

Mountain Range: Sawtooth Range

Year Climbed: 1994

First Ascent Information:

  • First Ascent Year: 1934
  • Season: Summer
  • Route: East Face
  • Party: Robert and Merriam Underhill and Dave Williams
  • Other First Ascent: North Face
  • Year: 1957
  • Season: Summer
  • Party: Iowa Mountaineers
  •  
  • Other First Ascent: Northeast Ridge
  • Year: 1965
  • Season: Summer
  • Party: Lyman Dye and W. Boyer
  •  
  • Other First Ascent: North Ridge Spur
  • Year: 1971
  • Season: Summer
  • Party: Mike Howard and Dave Walters

Longitude: -115.002095   Latitude: 44.112641

Photos:

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