Elevation: 10,220 ft
Climbing and access information for this peak is on Pages 171-173 of the book. The only route on this page is the Stur Chimney. Updated September 2019
Mount Heyburn is, perhaps, the most visible of all the Sawtooth Range peaks. It towers over Redfish Lake and immediately draws the interest of both climbers and photographers. All of the routes leading to its summit are technical, and access to any of the routes is a strenuous undertaking. USGS Mount Cramer
Mount Heyburn’s Stur Chimney is, in my opinion, the most “classic” Idaho and Sawtooth climbing route you can ever hope to find. It combines a beautiful approach with a two-pitch climb on solid granite. The chimney is a textbook example of an alpine chimney. The route was pioneered by Sawtooth legend, Luis Stur. If you desire to be a complete Idaho climber, climb this route (Grade II, 5.2).
Heyburn’s West Summit is known as the West Pinnacle and is a Class 6 problem. The first ascent dates back to 1948 when R. Widrig, J. Hieb, W. Grande and G. Mathews climbed the Tunnel Route which they rated III, Class 6. I do not think that there has been any significant activity on it since that time.
A Few More Photos.
Mountain Range: Sawtooth Range
Year Climbed: 1996
First Ascent Information:
- First Ascent Year: 1935
- Season: Summer
- Route: Southwest Ridge
- Party: Robert Underhill, Miriam Underhill and Dave Williams
- Other First Ascent: Stur Chimney
- Year: 1958
- Season: Spring
- Party: Fred Beckey, Jerry Fuller and Jim Ball.
- Other First Ascent: First Winter ascent. Northwest Ridge.
- Year: 1974
- Season: Winter
- Party: Jacques Bordeleau, Gordon Williams, Chris Puchner, Mark Sheehan and Joe Saviers
- Other First Ascent: East Face / Snow Couloir
- Year: 1947
- Season: Summer
- Party: Iowa Mountaineers: E. Carter, C. Fisher, B. Merriam and C. Wilcox