Peak 11070 (South Twin)

Elevation: 11,070 ft
Prominence: 530

Climbing and access information for peak is found on page 288. Livingston Douglas has provided (below) a more detailed access and route description than found in the book.


There is no easy way to reach this 11er peak which sits on the main Lost River Range crest south of Pass Creek Summit. When Rick Baugher reached the top in 1990 he found no evidence of prior ascents.

Rick's first ascent route climbed up the rib on the left side of this face.

Rick’s first ascent route climbed up the rib on the left side of this face.

South Twin from just above the Souith / North Twin Col.

South Twin from just above the Souith / North Twin Col.

South Twin for North Twin .

South Twin for North Twin .

Use the link below to read John Fadgen’s trip report which provides an excellent account of the difficulties involved in climbing this peak.


North Ridge Route, Class 2 by Livingston Douglas 

Date of Climb: 7/18/16
Map: Sunset Peak

Access

Elbow Canyon [(D)(1)]. First climb the West Face/West Ridge Route on Peak 11081/North Twin, then descend the South Ridge Route on Peak 11081/North Twin to reach the North Twin/South Twin ridge saddle at 10,540 feet.

Route

Please note that this is NOT the standard Cabin Fork Canyon approach. This one starts in Elbow Canyon. You’ll really have to work to get Peak 11070/South Twin done by this route. From the small saddle (10,540′) that connects North Twin and South Twin, climb up the ledge-y shale ridge outcrops, staying to the climber’s right/west of the ridge crest to avoid steep cliff bands. You will reach easier ground higher up and have an easy finish on the gentle summit plateau. The high point is at the southwest end of this flat summit area. I had no problems keeping this climb at Class 2. It is NOT of Class 3 difficulty unless you choose to make it harder than it has to be. The climb is just over 500 feet and takes a little over 20 minutes to ascend and just under 20 minutes to descend. You’ll get a good look at North Twin’s South Ridge from the summit (and North Ridge) of South Twin. That ridge is much tougher than this one. If you did the traverse from North Twin to South Twin, you will now wonder if you can get back up on top of North Twin. I know I did.

Mountain Range: Lost River Range

First Ascent Information:

  • First Ascent Year: 1990
  • Season: Summer
  • Route: Rib on the left side of the west face.
  • Party: Rick Baugher

Longitude: -113.33301   Latitude: 43.91819

Photos:

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