Peak 7575 (Doubletop Mountain) by Livingston Douglas

Elevation: 7,575 ft
Prominence: 595

This peak is not in the book. Published November 2018


Peak 7575 sits at the head of Montpelier Canyon. US-89 provides easy access to this peak. It is an almost perfectly double-topped mountain, with its south summit at 7,551 feet and the north summit at 7,575 feet. I found lots of evidence that a large herd of elk spend their winter here. If there is a standard route on this mountain, it is via the Southeast Face from Geneva Summit on US-89. USGS Montpelier Canyon

Date of Climb: October 3, 2018

Southwest Ridge, Class 2

Access

From the junction of US-30 and US-89 (just north of Maverik and Boulim’s), turn east onto US-89 and drive 9.1 miles to reach Geneva Summit (6,923 feet elevation). Park on either side of the highway in a large truck pullout area. Geneva Summit is actually a pass, not a summit. It serves as the connecting saddle between Peak 7461 and Peak 7575.

Route

This route is part of an ascent of Peak 7461 and Peak 7575. It begins at the base of the South Ridge of Peak 7461 and climbs the Southwest Ridge of Peak 7575 from US-89 to the 7551-foot south summit. It continues northward to the [higher] north summit (7,575 feet).

From the small bowl at the base of the South Ridge of Peak 7461, scramble up the steep scrub slope to reach US-89. Cross to the N side of the highway and walk a short distance eastward up the highway to reach an advantageous position from which to climb onto the Southwest Ridge. The terrain next to the highway is steep and crumbly dirt and, in some areas, it is virtually impossible to make an ascent.

After you have scrambled up an initial section of steep dirt, begin the grind up the steep, but easy, open scrub of the Southwest Ridge. You will reach Point 7066 relatively quickly and drop 30 vertical feet to a minor saddle. Continue NE up the rounded ridge, skirting some mountain mahogany as you go higher. Point 7551 (the south summit) sits at the top of the Southwest Ridge. You still have about ½ mile to go in order to reach the true summit (the north summit).

From Point 7551, descend NE then N on easy open terrain to a minor saddle that separates the north summit from the south summit. You must drop about 100 vertical feet to reach the saddle then climb a bit more than that, on rockier terrain, to reach the open summit of Peak 7575. The desert scrub is a bit thicker coming up from the saddle than it was up to that point. The summit has a small cairn.

South Ridge/South Face, Class 2DESCENT

Access

Same as for the Southwest Ridge Route.

Route

If you wish to add some excitement to your climb of Peak 7575, you should descend the ultra-steep South Face. Hopefully, you won’t lose your footing and tumble down onto US-89 in so doing. From the true [north] summit of Peak 7575, return S then SW to the top of Point 7551, the south summit. From Point 7551, descend southward, straight down the steep slope on loose gravel/dirt/scree and short scrub. You must navigate around some mountain mahogany on this descent. There are no game trails to help brake your descent. Not even the elk are dumb enough to graze here. By the time you reach US-89, you’ll be out of breath, even though the descent takes less than 10 minutes. Walk eastward up the highway to return to your vehicle parked on Geneva Summit. Attempting to ascend this route would qualify you as INSANE.

Climber Trip Reports

Mountain Range: Peale Mountains

First Ascent Information:

  • Other First Ascent: Southwest Ridge
  • Year: 2018
  • Season: Summer
  • Party: Livingston Douglas
  •  
  • Other First Ascent: South Ridge/South Face -Descent
  • Year: 2018
  • Season: Summer
  • Party: Livingston Douglas

Longitude: -111.14869   Latitude: 42.34249

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