Find Nearby Peaks

Climbing and access information for this peak is on Pages 175-176 of the book. The location discussed below is based on Brian Westphal’s research. The exact location of a number of formations located above Redfish Lake Creek have been subject to conjecture. This is primarily because there were no USGS quadrangles available when the formations were first climbed. The map on Page 174 has Grand Aiguille and Split Tooth reversed. The text description is correct. Published April 2026

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Split Tooth is located next to the Grand Aiguille southeast of the Rhino Perch on the Heyburn Divide on a spur ridge that descends from the Heyburn Divide to Redfish Lake Creek. USGS Mount Cramer

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Split Tooth, 5.10-  by Kaden Platt

The approach is the same as for Grand Aiguille, though you climb a short class 4 pitch on ball bearing granite to approach the base of the climb. Alejandro Santisteban and I made the ascent on July 19, 2026.

Pitch 1, 35m. (5.8): Zig zag up the two ledges until you reach a two piton belay.

Pitch 2, 30m. (5.9-): Start up large flake passed a small tree, flake thins out. Leave the crack and climb short friction slab to a tight hand sized pod, follow crack to dirty crack where rock changes color. Continue traversing dirty crack around ledge, build belay anchor here.

Pitch 3, 40m. (5.10-): Downclimb 20 feet to cross the split, traverse along slab until reach small tree. Climb up small holds up 3 old homemade hangers until you reach large dirty flake. Climb short dirty offwidth section, traverse then climb flaky rock. Last 20 feet climbs better rock to reach summit, slung small pillar on summit for belay/rappel.

Gear: single rack .1-#4 with small nuts. 8-10 alpine draws. 60m rope.

A final note: Beckey’s NE face route was an aid route, and not 5.7. They pinned their way up a smaller than tips crack to start. Alejandro and my route on Sunday linked up with part of Beckey’s route, we free climbed (without aid, not free solo) the bolt ladder on a blank face using small hold, easily the crux.