Elevation: 10,635 ft
Climbing and access information for this peak is found on pages 160 and 161. The book has three routes listed, Southwest Couloir, Northeast Face and Southeast Slopes. Below you will find a route description for the North Couloir.
Williiams Peak is part of the spectacular backdrop to Stanley, Idaho. The peaks is steep on all sides and between its steep walls and relentless talus climbing is difficult.
North Couloir, Grade III, Class 5
Time Required: 13 + hours Roundtrip
Mileage: 10-12 Miles Roundtrip
Elevation Gain 4100’
Equipment: Good “alpine” mixed rack, (2 ice screws, 1-2 snow flukes or pickets)
The pyramid-like North Face of Williams Peak towers over the Sawtooth Valley and provides a stunning backdrop for the tiny town of Stanley Idaho. Its summit is often cloaked with a veil of early morning clouds, which gives the peak an unapproachable look. While the mountain’s South Face and major ridgelines provides adventurous scrambles it is the steep and fluted North Face that offers the peak’s classic alpine climb. The 1,100’ North Couloir carves a sinewy line up the shadowy North Face of Williams Peak. Nine Pitches of steep climbing that often inspires the “elevator shaft” feeling, carriers climbers up snow, moderate ice and friable rock. Challenging climbing, good exposure and sweeping views from the summit make this one of the Sawtooth’s best alpine climbs.
Mountain Range: Sawtooth Range
Year Climbed: 1991
First Ascent Information:
- Other First Ascent: Northeast Face/June Couloir
- Year: 1986
- Season: Spring
- Party: Kirk Bachman and B. Franklin