Scenic Traction Route

This route was pioneered by Steve Bartlett and Fran Bagenal. Steve’s route description follows.

Scenic Traction 5.9+, 1,100 feet

FA: Steve Bartlett, Fran Bagenal (July 15, 2004)

Last Summer (2005), Fran Bagenal and I climbed a new route on the left side of the cliff. This takes the clean face left of the large left-facing dihedral system just left of Slippery Slope. This climb takes the face about 150 feet left of Slippery Slope in 7 pitches. We climbed this on sight with bolts placed on the lead. The rock is superb and the climbing likewise. Route-finding is tricky in places, and several pitches are runout. We tried another new route on the same cliff a few days later, taking the face right of the original classic Triple Cracks, and—surprise—we ran into a line of bolts about a couple hundred feet up—the line of Memorial. We probably did the 2nd ascent of this route. Fun climbing but kinda close to Triple Cracks in places.


Scramble up a left-facing ramp/groove to a ledge. This is about 80 feet left of Slippery Slope’s start. There is a large rotten, bulging, right-facing dihedral above and left of this ledge. On the face above are 2 major vertical crack systems, perhaps 100 feet apart. The route stays between them then takes the clean face above, heading to a large dead tree at the summit.
1. Climb up cracks, then trend up and right to a ledge system and an old 2-bolt anchor beneath along vertical crack (5.6, 180 feet).
2. Clip an old pin in the crack above, then angle up and left into the middle of the steeper face. Climb straight up past 2 bolts, then run it out to a ledge. (5.9+R, 120 feet).
3. Continue straight up on easier terrain then step right to another pair of older bolts (5.7, 80 feet).
4. Angle up and left into the middle of the face, then straight up, with occasional gear. Belay after 180 feet under a Cadillac-sized, 2-foot thick, V-shaped flake. This is somewhat below, and 80 feet left of, a prominent left-facing dihedral with a large lone tree. You will be directly under a large dead tree at the top of the cliff. (5.8R, 180 feet).
5. Layback up and left around the V-shaped flake, then gain a small ledge and left-facing dihedral/flake. Up this, then run it out up a nice rippled face to a small ledge and 2-bolt anchor (5.8R, 180 feet).
6. Continue straight up on never-ending dike ripples, passing occasional flakes for gear and belay at a fat right-facing flake just before the angle eases but right as the rope runs out (5.8R, 205 feet).
7. Continue to the top (5.7, 190 feet)