Diamond Peak

Elevation: 12,197 ft
Prominence: 5,387

Climbing information for Diamond Peak is found on page 308. 


Diamond Peak is the fourth highest peak in the state and the only 12er in the Lemhi Range. Back in 1981 when I climbed the peak nobody was talking about climbing all of the 12,000 Idaho peaks and Diamond was seldom climbed.

The great and unclimbed north face of Diamond Peak. Larry Prescott Photo

The great and unclimbed north face of Diamond Peak. Larry Prescott Photo

The peak’s east ridge is a classic line that should not be missed. There are a few photos from my 1981 climb directly below and below that you will find the entire route documented by Dan Paulson.

West Face of Diamond Peak on the day before my November 1981 climb.

It was almost winter when we climbed the peak. Though there was a lot of snow in the canyon to the south, the east ridge was blown mostly clear of snow.

It was almost winter when we climbed the peak. Though there was a lot of snow in the canyon to the south, the east ridge was blown mostly clear of snow.

Starting up the peak's east ridge, November of 1980.

Starting up the peak’s east ridge, November of 1981.

East Ridge of Diamond Peak December 1980.

East Ridge of Diamond Peak November 1981.

The summit, November 1981. Notice the climbing attire of the day.

The summit, November 1981. Notice the climbing attire of the day.


East Ridge Route Photo Essay by Dan Paulson.

The east ridge route begins by climbing out of the Birch Creek Valley. Dan Paulson Photo

The east ridge route begins by climbing out of the Birch Creek Valley. Dan Paulson Photo

Another view of the lower route in the foreground and the upper east ridge is on the skyline climbing from right to left. Dan Paulson Photo

Another view of the lower route in the foreground and the upper east ridge is on the skyline climbing from right to left. Dan notes that “Once you find your way through the trees and get into the saddle where you finally get a good view of the Riddler, this is what you see when you look at your path. Follow the best way through the trees to the start of the trail up the talus slope. This is a fairly short talus slope. The ridge line is less steep and more firm once you top out above the talus.” Dan Paulson Photo

The ridge is a talus slog in its mid-section. Dan Paulson Photo

The ridge is a talus slog in its mid-section. Dan Paulson Photo

 

Moving up the ridge. Dan Paulson Photo

Moving up the ridge. Dan Paulson Photo

The upper ridge. Dan Paulson Photo

The upper ridge. Dan Paulson Photo

The upper ridge is a rocky rib. You should be able to find a Class 3 route up the ridge but keep in mind that there is a lot of Class 4 territory so be careful where you tread. Dan Paulson Photo

The upper ridge is a rocky rib. You should be able to find a Class 3 route up the ridge but keep in mind that there is a lot of Class 4 territory so be careful where you tread. Dan Paulson Photo

The east ridge is one of the longest pure ridge routes in Idaho. Dan Paulson Photo

The east ridge is one of the longest pure ridge routes in Idaho. Dan Paulson Photo

Classic ridge climbing at its best. Dan Paulson Photo

Misty Broesicke enjoying classic ridge climbing at its best. Dan Paulson Photo

The summit. Dan Paulson Photo

Dan Paulson and Misty Broesicke on the summit summit. Dan Paulson Photo

Also see Larry Prescott’s photo essay on the East Ridge Route.


West Side Route: not many people climb the peak from the west due to the fact it involves a steep scree climb. Here is a west side route photo courtesy of Zach Vickery.

Ascending the west side of Diamond Peak involves a classic talus climb. The blue line is the ascent and the red line the descent taken by Zach Vickery and Matt Durant. Zack's Photo

Ascending the west side of Diamond Peak involves a classic talus climb. The red line is the ascent and the blue line the descent taken by Zach Vickery and Matt Durant. Zack’s Photo

Also see Larry Prescott’s photo essay on the East Ridge Route.

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Two more shots of Diamond.

Diamond Peak from Italian Peak

Another view of this impressive peak ,Diamond Peak from Italian Peak .

Diamond Peak from Copper Mountain, February 2017. John Platt Photo

 

 

 

Climber Trip Reports

Mountain Range: Lemhi Range

Year Climbed: 1980

Longitude: -113.082778   Latitude: 44.14667

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