Elevation: 12,078 ft
This peak is found on page 283.
Lost River Mountain is the 6th highest Idaho peak and its Super Gully is the most distinctive feature of any of the 12ers. While the vast majority of climbers summit via the Super Gully, as discussed below, other routes are available.
Contents: 1) Photos of the Super Gully Route, 2) new Hyper Gully Route, 3) Update on the Northwest Gully/North Ridge Route found in the book on page 282 including additional access information for the route.
Super Gully Route
Hyper Gully Route
The following information is from Pat Lang of Pocatello
Recently on 16 Oct 04 a friend of mine, Henning Krebs, and I went to go up Super Gully on Lost River Peak. From the general parking area on the Mackay side of the mountain we wandered up through the trees and what not up to the point where you can see the gully structures leading up the high ridges. We crossed into the debris at the bottom of this structure and stayed right as we moved up. We climbed to top of the gully that we were in, passing a couple of 4th class sections on white loose rock about two thirds of the way up. Once at the top of the gully we were cliffed, with our only option being a move left (north) into a tight gully that exits after a hundred feet or so onto a small platform. After a short quick low fifth class move on the left side of the platform, we found ourselves on the ridge that leads to the false summit on Lost River Peak. We followed the ridge to the false summitt and continued onto the real summit. On return we descended the Super Gully.
The gully we went up is the first major gully to the right of Super Gully as you look up at the mountain from the Lost River side. I believe our ascent was probably a first ascent because we saw absolutely no sign of any other human passing. At no point did we find disturbed loose rock, scratched rocks, footprints, trash, etc.
I propose the following for your book, should you publish yet another edition, which I hope you will.
Hyper Gully: proceed as described for access to Super Gully.
Once at the bottom of debris (scree) field, instead of crossing the debris field left (north) to the small ridge that provides access to Super Gully proper, head due east up a rapidly narrowing gully. As you proceed up you will cross some white rock bands, which are full of loose rocks and are best crossed on the left side (4th class).
After passing these bands stay in the ever narrowing gully heading for a small gate at the top of the gully. The last several hundred yards are extremely loose.
At the gate which measures about 5 ft across turn left (north) and scramble up a narrow rock filled gully to a small platform having a small rock wall (7ft) on its left side.
Climb over this wall (4th-5th class) to arrive onto a wide ridge that leads to a false summit of Lost River Peak. From the false summit follow the ridge to the cairn summit of LRP. To return, reverse your route to the false summit and then drop down its scree field west face.
After several hundred yards you will be in the Super Gully which has a well worn `path’ down.
Keep up the good work.
Northwest Gully/North Ridge Route update from Judi Steciak and Carl Hamke and photo.
Attached is a picture and suggest edit (in bold) for the N ridge route on Lost River Mountain.
Also we think that because of the rock quality and the exposure at the crux traverse, this should be upgraded to Class 5. We do not use a rope on Class 3-4. We would not have done this route without one.
–Judi and Carl
Judi also provided this addition to the approach section noting it “might save someone from blow down and rougher terrain on the other side of the creek.”
(A)(6.1)(a.1) North Ridge Lost River Mountain Cross-Country Route
Where a prominent tributary of Dry Creek enters from the Lost River Mountain drainage, stay above the creek on its south side. You will cross a clearing near this confluence and may encounter an outfitter camp at its southeastern end. Say hello and walk through camp to find a trail. The trail was maintained in the past (blazes and cut logs) and is the least strenuous approach to the upper section of the drainage.
Sometime after 2005, a group wishing to promote big game hunting bought up the grazing rights for upper Dry Creek. The sheepherder camps and herds are gone. Instead there is at least one outfitter camp in the drainage.