Derek Percoski Post Earthquake Report
More bad news about the Sawtooths. I don’t believe a reasonable Class 4 route up the summit block of Mount Regan remains. Perhaps I missed something, but I looked around quite a bit and it took some questionable decisions to reach the top. Regardless of a climber’s ability, the cruxes all involve loose dirt and rock sloping down toward deadly exposure. I think a Class 4+ rating bump would be a good idea along with a mention that the guidebook information won’t be completely relevant once you reach the summit block.
There were around 10 summit register entries since the earthquake (of course they weren’t all the same route). Some mentioned the mess and the inappropriate Class 4 rating. The attached photo is an entry from a party that had climbed the peak both before and after the earthquake. I noticed later they marked northeast ridge as their route. I know Brett was up there last Summer. I’d be curious to hear others observations. It almost seems like that route should be shelved and it shouldn’t be advised to show up to Regan without a rope expecting to scramble to the summit—but I’m just trying to start a discussion rather than dictate anything.
If I were to speculate, it looks like taking the southeast ridge up then making a 300-foot trad ascent of the south face of the summit block seems like a more enjoyable alternative.