Elevation: 11,090 ft
Climbing and access information for this peak is found on page 267. Brett Sergenian’s trip report is linked below. It is a good supplement to the information found on this page and in the book.
Gooseberry Peak is a complicated summit. I climbed it from Christian Gulch via the East Buttress/South Ridge route with Dana Hansen in 1991. The route is a bit roundabout, but enjoyable and challenging. Please note that there has been one fatality on this route when Minchael Darcy fell during a solo climb in 2012.
Livingston Douglas provided the following comments on the route:
I climbed Tom Lopez’s first ascent route on Gooseberry Peak (the East Buttress/South Ridge Route) back in 2014. The East Buttress is a bit testy and should not be taken lightly—it’s a full-on Class 3, perhaps even Class 4 to some (especially if you get even a little off-course). The lower section of the East Buttress is a steep slab with minimal hand-holds. I friction-gripped it with my boots and had to sit down to descend it. The middle section of the East Buttress is a crumbly knife-edge that angles upward and to the right. Thankfully, once atop this knife-edge, the terrain is much easier, actually flattening out before a final, easy Class 3 face climb onto the South Ridge. The South Ridge is choppy but it goes as advertised (Class 3). Stay to the left/west of the ridge crest to avoid any ridge difficulties.
And remember that Michael Darcy, a careful and conscientious climber, took a fall about 300 feet below the summit of Gooseberry on this very South Ridge and perished from his injuries. So watch your footing here.
Mountain Range: Lost River Range
Year Climbed: 1991
First Ascent Information:
- First Ascent Year: 1991
- Season: Summer
- Route: East Buttress/South Ridge
- Party: Tom Lopez and Dana Hansen