Gooseberry Peak a.k.a. Mount Darcy

Elevation: 11,090 ft
Prominence: 950

Climbing and access information for this peak is found on page 267. Brett Sergenian’s trip report is linked below. It is a good supplement to the information found on this page and in the book.


Gooseberry Peak is a complicated summit. I climbed it from Christian Gulch via the East Buttress/South Ridge route with Dana Hansen in 1991. The route is a bit roundabout, but enjoyable and challenging. Please note that there has been one fatality on this route when Minchael Darcy fell during a solo climb in 2012.

Livingston Douglas provided the following comments on the route:

I climbed Tom Lopez’s first ascent route on Gooseberry Peak (the East Buttress/South Ridge Route) back in 2014. The East Buttress is a bit testy and should not be taken lightly—it’s a full-on Class 3, perhaps even Class 4 to some (especially if you get even a little off-course). The lower section of the East Buttress is a steep slab with minimal hand-holds. I friction-gripped it with my boots and had to sit down to descend it.  The middle section of the East Buttress is a crumbly knife-edge that angles upward and to the right. Thankfully, once atop this knife-edge, the terrain is much easier, actually flattening out before a final, easy Class 3 face climb onto the South Ridge.  The South Ridge is choppy but it goes as advertised (Class 3).  Stay to the left/west of the ridge crest to avoid any ridge difficulties. 

And remember that Michael Darcy, a careful and conscientious climber, took a fall about 300 feet below the summit of Gooseberry on this very South Ridge and perished from his injuries. So watch your footing here.

Gooseberry. George Reinier Photo

Gooseberry Peak. George Reinier Photo

Gooseberry Peak from Tinity Peak. Sorry about the poor scan of this slide.

Gooseberry Peak from Trinity Peak.

This area on the west side of the peak's south ridge near the ridge crest bypasses a tower blocking the ridge and was the most convoluted area we crossed.

This area on the west side of the peak’s south ridge, near the ridge crest, bypasses a tower blocking the ridge and was the most convoluted area we crossed.

Mountain Range: Lost River Range

Year Climbed: 1991

First Ascent Information:

  • First Ascent Year: 1991
  • Season: Summer
  • Route: East Buttress/South Ridge
  • Party: Tom Lopez and Dana Hansen

Longitude: -113.96629   Latitude: 44.31629

Photos:

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