Peak 10020 (South Freeman Peak)

Elevation: 10,020 ft
Prominence: 440

This peak is not in the book.


Peak 10020 (South Freeman Peak) is located just south of Freeman Peak. When I climbed Freeman Peak, I ignored South Freeman because I did not realize it rose 440 feet from its saddle with Freeman Peak. Fortunately, Livingston Douglas climbed the peak and provided the route information set out below.

South Freeman Peak may be unclimbed.

South Freeman Peak may be unclimbed.

East Ridge, Class 3, by Livingston Douglas


Access

I climbed South Freeman Peak on 8/5/17 from Pass 9194. This is a fun Class 3 scramble on the Continental Divide from Pass 9194. The pass can be reached either from the Idaho side (via Freeman Creek Road/Trail) or from the Montana side (via Upper Miner Lakes).

My approach was from the Montana side of the Divide. I unofficially call it Freeman Peak East, as it is located 1/2 mile east-southeast of Freeman Peak.


Route

This peak appears to have three potential summits: east, middle, and west.

  • The east summit is located on the Continental Divide, but it turns out to NOT be the highest point.
  • The west summit is about 300 feet northwest of the middle summit, but it also is NOT the highest point.
  • The middle summit is about 300 feet west of the Continental Divide and IS the highest point, the peak’s true summit. I found a small cairn on top, but nothing else. I built a larger cairn on this true summit.

Using an altimeter and visual observation, I noted that both the east and west high points measured 20 feet lower than the true (middle) summit.

The scramble among these three points is Class 3. Stay below (and north
of) the ridge crest when climbing from the east point to the summit, then scramble south up onto the gentle hump to reach the summit. To reach the west point, stay on the north side of the ridge crest to reach its rocky, small top. There are great views of Freeman Peak’s East Face route and the snow-filled cirque below it from this rocky outcrop.

From my observations, all other ridges on this peak (i.e., north, west, and south ridges) appear to be Class 5 endeavors. I was surprised how easily the East Ridge route went. It looks worse from a distance than it turned out to be. Stay on or close to the ridge crest when climbing the East Ridge in order to avoid the nastier, steeper stuff on the sides of the ridge. There were nice views of Freeman Peak and Monument Peak from all three high points.

South Freeman Peak is a legitimate Idaho peak, as its true summit lies in Idaho and most of this mountain’s body is located in the state of Idaho. For bonus points, scramble up the easy Class 2 southwest ridge of Peak 9992 from Pass 9194 while you’re up here. Peak 9992 has a gentle summit and is right on the Continental Divide.

USGS Topo: Homer Youngs Peak

Climber Trip Reports

Mountain Range: Beaverhead Range

Longitude: -113.69201   Latitude: 45.27239

Share this post ...Facebooktwittergoogle_plusredditpinterestmail

Comments are closed.