Umpleby Peak

Elevation: 10,713 ft
Prominence: 773

Climbing information for Umpleby Peak is found on page 305.


Umpleby is a special and unique peak with lots of good routes. I highly recommend you add it to you todo list. There are great, scenic camping spots on both sides of the mountain and super views of Bell Mountain from its summit.

This entry provides updated route information. Contents included (1) brief notes on The Knoll to Umpleby Traverse, (2), The North Ridge Route, (3) the Bell Mountain to Umpleby Traverse and (4) the Basinger Canyon Route.


(1) Knoll to Umpleby Traverse. (Class 3)

From the summit of the Knoll traverse southeast down the main Lemhi crest to the Knoll/Umpleby saddle. Climb Umpleby’s west ridge staying as close as you can to the top. Roughly 450 feet from the top, traverse onto the face and follow a Class 3 gully up ti the ridgeline just south of the summit. You will find talus covered ledges and some minor climbing on this route.


(2) North Ridge Route. (Class 3).

The north ridge is a classic line mixing hard rock, talus, cliffs and great views together into an enjoyable line.

The north ridge is on the right skyline. The route climbs up through the trees, skirts the big tower on the left and then follows the ridge to the summit.

The north ridge is on the right skyline. The route climbs up through the trees, skirts the big tower on the left and then follows the ridge to the summit.

Camp in the vicinity of Bell Mountain Canyon. (A)(4.1.1) There are lots of good spots to camp. If you have a 4WD you can reach 8,000 feet at the base of the ridge. The route climbs up through the trees, skirts the big tower on the left and then follows the ridge to the summit.

Above treeline the route opens up.

Above treeline the route opens up.

The crux of this route is a band of cliffs at the bottom left of the tower. Look for an obvious line on the left hand side of the cliffs and then follow a ledge up to your right.

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The route through the cliffs starts above the highest snow patch.

Once above the cliffs you will find steep talus as you work your way up to the top of the ridge which leads up to the summit.


(3) Bell Mountain to Umpleby Traverse.

This information and photo were provided by Earl McAlister.

This  write-up covers a fine new route not in the book .

Just sending you the info you wanted, with a bunch of pictures. We started in Bassinger canyon, ascended Bell’s West face route, descended it’s East Face (a little tricky in places), walked the North ridge of Bell to Umpleby. We climbed it’s Southwest ridge/face, which is class 2. Just a talus walk. After that we descended one of the gullies I have pictured on Umpleby’s Northwest face. We then walked up the ridge to The Knoll and descended it’s West face back to Bassinger canyon. It was a great day in the Lemhis. Sorry the pictures aren’t very good quality, I had to scan them as I didn’t have my digital with me. I’ve also included a map and a couple pictures you might be interested in. Ross Peak and Shadow Lake Peak from a trip last summer. Anyway, if you need more information, just let me know.

Photo by Earl McAlister

Photo by Earl McAlister

>earl

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(4) Basinger Canyon Route.

Larry Prescott climbed the peak from the west via Bassinger Creek. See his trip report for additional photos and details.

The west face of Umpleby Peak with Larry Prescott's route shown in red. Larry Prescott Photo

The west face of Umpleby Peak with Larry Prescott’s route shown in red. Larry Prescott Photo


 

Climber Trip Reports

Mountain Range: Lemhi Range

Year Climbed: 2005

Longitude: -113.19401   Latitude: 44.25529

Photos:

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