Sawtooth Rock Climbs

The links below are no longer valid. Until I can restore the links please refer to the following link:

Clint Cummins Sawtooth Rock Climbing Ratings and Links

California climbing legend Clint Cummins put together the following web page of technical climbs in the Sawtooths. It is the single best resource that I know of for Sawtooth rock climbing on the Elephants Perch and many other iconic Sawtooth formations like the Finger of Fate and the Goat Perch as well as lesser-known features like the Black Buttress.

Verita Ridge. Provided by Clint Cummins

Verita Ridge. Provided by Clint Cummins

Rev. 2/26/09

Sawtooths Rock Climbs

Topos and photos from The Elephant’s Perch Store in Ketchum, ID
(copied by myself, Brad Brandewie and others)
Brad Brandewie’s trip reports trip reports
google maps (USGS quad topo maps)
Rock & Ice magazine, Climbing magazine
“Idaho: A Climbing Guide”, Tom Lopez, 2nd edition, 2000

Trail map

Mount Heyburn

1. Stur Chimney 5.6, 3p, large RFC on west face. Mostly edges and cracks.
(will add topo)

Super Slab
approach map
topo 1 – Climbing #204
2. Hyperspace 5.10, 2-5p

3. Leviathan 5.10a *, 3p

4. Bacon and Legs 5.9 *, 3-5p, polished rock

5. Super Slab – Regular Var. 5.8+, 2-5p

6. Super Slab – Gully Centrale 5.7 *, 5p

7. Catwoman 5.10d *, 10x, 1-3p
Brad Brandewie’s photo trip report

8. Tin Man 5.9+ *, 1-3p

Outside Chance area (drainage NE of Elephant’s Perch, approach opp. Super Slab)
(will add topo)

9. Claptrap 5.10, 2p
10. Outside Chance p1 var. 5.10
11. Outside Chance 5.9+, 2p
12. Magic Fingers 5.9+, 3p

The Black Buttress (same drainage)

13. High Anxiety 5.9+, 5p
Brad Brandewie’s photo trip report

Elephant’s Perch: Clint’s cataloging of many routes on this features is set out below. Take the following link to get to the links for the various routes: main Elephant’s Perch page, with topos and TR links

14. The Breach 5.11
15. Pandemonium Palace 5.11
16. Splittgerber-March Direct 5.10b
17. Pachydermal Pleasantries 5.9 A2, 11p
18. Beyond the Zero 5.9 A3
19. Chasing the Dragon 5.11+ A0
20. Mountaineer’s Route 5.9
21. Trunkline 5.10+
22. Wendy 5.10+
23. Route X 5.9 A2
24. Boomer’s Story Var. 5.9 A2
25. Boomer’s Story 5.9 A2
26. The Thorn Bush 5.9 A3
27. Slipstream 5.10 A3
28. Hook & Ladder 5.9 A3
29. Direct Beckey 5.11a **
30. Original Beckey 5.11+, stemming pitch from Fine Line to Direct Beckey
31. The Fine Line 5.11a ***
32. Fine Line Var. 5.8 A3
33. Lost Horizons 5.10 A2+
34. The Seagull 5.10 A3
35. King’s Highway 5.9 A3
36. Myopia 5.11a ***
37. Divine Guidance 5.11- *, quality but runout on hard 5.10
38. Elephant’s Eye Var. 5.10+ A3
39. Elephant’s Eye 5.10+ A3
40. Astro Elephant 5.10a **
41. Side Line Var. 5.9
42. Sunrise Book 5.12a or 5.10a A1 **

43. EP Arete, first arete S of E Perch

44. The Tusk, second arete S of E Perch

Chipmunk Perch (9,840 feet, SW of Elephants Perch, E of group)
brief route descriptions
(will add topo)

45. The Four Horsemen 5.9, east ridge, 14p
John Frieh’s photo trip report
46. Chipmunk Arete 5.9+ *, north ridge, 9p

Goat Perch (10,080 feet, middle of group)

47. Goat Perch – North Ridge 5.7 or 5.9, E Face to N Ridge
48. Goat Perch – SW Ridge 5.0

Eagle Perch (9,560 feet, W of group)

49. Eagle Perch – North Ridge Direct 5.8
50. Eagle Perch – NW Buttress 5.6

Warbonnet (10,200 feet, 8-mile hike from Redfish Lake to Bead Lakes base camp) outline of ridge with climbs shown

51. Warbonnet – Southwest Ridge 5.4
52. Warbonnet – Southwest Rib 5.9, 8p
(will add topo)
53. Warbonnet – Southeast Face 5.7, 7 short pitches
(will add topo)
54. Black Crystal 5.12a, 10p, N face
55. Warbonnet – NE Face A1

56. Energizer Bunny 5.9, 6p, p5 wide hand crux, unnamed peak N of E ridge of Warbonnet

Cirque Lake Peak

57. Cirque Lake Peak – Central Tower – South Rib 5.9, 9p

Lion’s Head

58. Lion’s Head – Southeast Face 5.9
59. Mane Attraction 5.9+

Silicon Tower

60. The Implant 5.10
61. Silicon Tower – Southwest Face 5.9+

Baron Spire (9,837 feet; 10-mile, 3,100-foot approach)
(routes rated to base of summit block, then A2 old 22 bolt ladder to top)

62. Baron Spire – Royalty Ridge 5.10+, SW ridge, many towers,
63. Baron Spire – S Ridge 5th?, aka Old Smoothie
64. Baron Spire – Summit Block A2, final old bolt ladder is A2, 22x
65. Lawdog’s Lament 5.10-, 5p, chimney on SE face, 150′ L of SE Face, MP
(will add overlay photo)
66. Tall Boys and Breakfast Burritos 5.10c A0, 6p, LFC 30′ R of Lawdog’s Lament, MP
67. Deliverance 5.10c A2, 6p, starts 50′ L of SE Face, splitter on prow, MP
68. Baron Spire – SE Face 5.9, 5p
(will add topo)
69. Baron Spire – E Face 5.9
70. The Destroying Angel 5.11b, North Ridge, 18p, p2 5.11b or aid, 12p are 5.9 or 5.10

71. Bum Rush 5.11a, 5p, E Face of p9211′, NE of Baron Spire along ridge, MP

Baron Falls Tower (8,960 feet, N of Baron Spire, W of Point 9211)

72. Carpal Tunnel 5.11- A0, 6p,
(will add overlay photo)
73. Baron Falls Tower – W Face 5.10, 7p, 2p chimney then right

Finger of Fate – Lower East Buttress
approach map
East Buttress topo

74. FFE A 5.9, 3p
75. FFE B 5.9, 3p
76. FFE C 5.11+, 3p
77. FFE D 5.10, 3p

Finger of Fate – North Face (900-foot monolith)
route descriptions for North Face routes

78. The Open Book 5.8+ ***, 6p. 4p up corners on north face, hand/finger crack,
arete, tunnel under summit block.
Open Book topo
Brad Brandewie’s photo trip report
79. Tiptoe 5.10-, 2p, very thin cracks in corner, hand crack, joins Open Book
80. Feel Free 5.9, 2p, wide crack through roof, LFC to notch (Bob: Lance and I put up that route on the Finger in (I believe) 1972. We named it “Feel Free” after the Cream song because when we started the route we thought it would require aid, but it went free. Cheers…..Dick Dorworth)
81. Bino’s Book 5.9, 2p, awkward layback in groove to finger crack, to W ridge
82. Drizzlepuss 5.8, 2p up farthest right book, exit in diagonal crack/chimney
(Dorworth-Poulsen is 75′ right of Open Book, has roof, hand crack)

Arrowhead (80-foot tower, 15 feet wide at base)

83. Arrowhead – West Face 5.9, straight-in cracks and small corners
(will add topo)

Mt. Cramer (SW of Finger of Fate, can approach 6-8 miles from Redfish Lake)

84. The Only Dance There Is 5.10+, 13p, on NW Face
85. Mt Cramer – North Face 5.11a C2, 6p,