Castle Peak

Elevation: 11,815 ft
Prominence: 4,035

Climbing and access information for this peak is on Pages 224-226 of the book.


Castle Peak doesn’t reach 12,000 feet but it is every bit as impressive and as difficult to climb as the 12ers. It is also, in my opinion, one of the Idaho’s Top Ten Peaks when it comes to beauty.  I hope that the following photos support my opinion. I climbed the peak’s Big Gully Route, which is a classic, but it involves a longer access. There are five photos of the Big Gully Route farther down the page.

The more popular route climbs the peak’s Southwest Face. Use the links below to read trip reports from John Platt, Dave Pahlas, Dan Robbins and Tom Cox (all used Southwest Gully variations) with additional information that will help you summit this beauty. Read Tom Cox’s article on the Chamberlain Basin Cross-Country Route to learn about a shortcut to the South Side of the peak. Unfortunately, there has been one death on the peak involving a rare Summertime avalanche. Please take the time to read the report when doing your research to learn from this unfortunate accident. USGS Boulder Chain Lakes

Castle Peak from Peak 10405.

Castle Peak as viewed from Peak 10405.

From summit of Mt Ernie Day view W to the White Clouds most worth saving. Castle Peak, left, and Merriam Peak, right. 8/15/10. Rick Baugher Photo

From the summit of Mount Ernie Day, the view west to the White Clouds (8/15/10): Castle Peak (left) and Merriam Peak (right). Rick Baugher Photo

castle Peak2

Castle Peak.

Castle Peak

Castle Peak from Croesus Peak.

Castle Peak as viewed from Croesus Peak.

Castle Peak from Bowery Peak.

Castle Peak as viewed from Bowery Peak.

Castle Peak from Lone Pine Peak.

Castle Peak as viewed from Lone Pine Peak.

Castle Peak from Ryan Peak in the Boulders.

Castle Peak as viewed from Ryan Peak.

Castle Peak with the Serrate Ridge in the foreground.

Castle Peak with the Serrate Ridge in the foreground.


Big Gully Route

I climbed the peak via this route which combines a backpacking approach to Lake 9419 with an excellent, roundabout approach from the lake to the Big Gully.

The route to the lake from the old mining camp moves in an out of the trees in its lower reaches with good footing most of the way.

The route to the lake from the old mining camp moves in and out of the trees in its lower reaches with good footing most of the way.

The last part of the route to the ridge north of Lake 9419 crosses this talus slope on a good game trail.

The last part of the route to the ridge north of Lake 9419 crosses this talus slope on a good game trail.

Dana Hansen climbing the Big Gully Route on Castle Peak.

Dana Hansen climbing the Big Gully Route on Castle Peak.

The last little bit of the Big Gully Route.

The final section of the Big Gully Route.

The westernmost summit from the middle summit.

The West Summit as viewed from the Middle Summit.

Mountain Range: White Cloud Mountains

Year Climbed: 1985

First Ascent Information:

  • First Ascent Year: 1912
  • Season: Summer
  • Route: Unknown
  • Party: T.M. Bannon
  • Other First Ascent: First Winter Ascent
  • Year: 1971
  • Season: Winter
  • Party: Ron Watters, Ike Gayfield, j. Hokum, H. Gilbert, S. Schaffer and J. Elphinston

Longitude: -114.3507   Latitude: 44.0222

Photos:

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