Hope Peak

Elevation: 11,010 ft
Prominence: 560

Climbing and access information for this peak is found on page 262.


I hope to climb Hope Peak someday. I have climbed all the surrounding peaks and found it enticing but always just out of reach. Hope Peak is located northeast of Gooseberry Peak/Mount Darcy and southeast of Trinity Peak. Hope Peak looks completely different from every vantage point.

Rick Baugher made the first ascent in 1993. His route is set out in the book. This page provides Livingston Douglas’ route information for his 2014 first ascent of the peak’s northwest ridge.

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Northwest Ridge Route, Class 2-3, by Livingston Douglas 

Approach

I approached Hope Peak via a is ridge traverse from the summit of Trinity Peak on 7/11/14. I climbed Trinity Peak from the east fork of Christian Gulch [(C)(4)(a)] via its southeast ridge.

Route

From the South Summit of Trinity Peak, follow the narrow ridge crest south to a small saddle at 10,460 feet. Continue south along the ridge, skirting the northeast side of Point 10721 to avoid unnecessary elevation gain. The ridge turns southeast here. Climb up over a double-humped ridge point then drop 150 feet to a final saddle that sits directly below the northwest ridge of Peak 11010. Follow the ridge southeast to the rocky summit of Peak 11010, skirting the southwest side of a false summit en route. Most of the ridge traverse from Trinity Peak is easy class 2, with goat trails to help. The final climb to the summit of Peak 11010 is easy class 3. There was nothing on top of this peak, so I build a respectable cairn.

If you plan to climb Gooseberry Peak/Mount Darcy via Tom Lopez’s East Buttress/South Ridge Route, the summit of Peak 11010 is a good perch to see exactly what the east buttress looks like. The east buttress rises up to Point 10750 on the south ridge of Gooseberry Peak. Given the forest-and-boulder mix of the gulch that leads up to the base of the east buttress, you might have difficulty identifying which buttress is the correct one to climb from that gulch. However, the view from Peak 11010 will help you avoid mistakenly climbing the east buttress that climbs to Point 10757 on Gooseberry’s south ridge. More importantly, the view will help you avoid mistakenly climbing the ominous-looking east ridge of Gooseberry Peak. I repeated Lopez’s East Buttress/South Ridge Route on Gooseberry Peak the next day.

Hope Peak. Remember when shorts were short?

Hope Peak. Remember when shorts were short?

USGS Topo: Grouse Creek Mountain

Climber Trip Reports

Mountain Range: Lost River Range

First Ascent Information:

  • First Ascent Year: 1993
  • Season: Summer
  • Route: East Ridge
  • Party: Rick Baugher
  • Other First Ascent: Northwest Ridge Route
  • Year: 2014
  • Season: Summer
  • Party: Livingston Douglas

Longitude: -113.9171   Latitude: 44.3221

Photos:

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