Italian Peak, East Summit

Elevation: 10,988 ft

This peak is found at pages 325 to 326.


There are many fine Beaverhead summits that offer challenging scrambles such as Freeman Peak and the and North and South Doublet but none offer as interesting of traverse as the one between Italian Peak’s two summits. While not a separate mountain, Italian Peak‘s eastern summit is the more interesting, albeit lower, of the two summits. The route between the west summit and the east summit is a challenging, fun scramble that I rate as Class 4.

The east summit of Italian peak viewed from the west summit.

The east summit of Italian peak viewed from the west summit.

The traverse from the west summit to the south summit descends along the base of the west summit by following the top of a talus heap.

The traverse from the west summit to the south summit descends along the base of the west summit by following the top of a talus heap.

The footing is fair along this part of the route.

The footing is fair along this part of the route.

Italian Peak 4th class pitch

The Chimney/face pitch is impossible to miss. Start by climbing the first 30 feet in the chimney.

Italian Peak 4th class pitch

The remaining section, in my opinion, is best climbed on the face. Of course, you may feel different about solving this problem.

 

This is the 60 foot chimney / face pitch which is the crux of East Italian Peak.

This is the 60 foot chimney / face pitch which is the crux of East Italian Peak.

Looking down the 4th class pitch.

Looking down the 4th class pitch.

We were surprised to find a large steel boundary marker on the summit. Those surveyors really got around.

We were surprised to find a large steel boundary marker on the summit. Those surveyors really got around.


 

Mountain Range: Beaverhead Range

Year Climbed: 1991

Longitude: -112.850797   Latitude: 44.359170

Photos:

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