JT Peak

Elevation: 9,438 ft
Prominence: 778

This attractive but out of the way peak is not in the book.


John Platt and I recorded the first ascent of this peak in 2011. It is rated as the 6th steepest peak in the state. The first time I saw this peak was in 1990.

My first view of JT Peak in 1990 from Plummer Peak.

My first view of JT Peak in 1990 from Plummer Peak.

JT Peak is located in a relatively remote area near above the South Fork Payette River roughly 17 miles from Grandjean. Approach (B)(3) on page 208. The summit from the distance looked studded with a granite towers like many other Sawooth peaks. My research failed to turn up any information on this unnamed peak and I told myself I need to explore the peak because it might be unclimbed. It took me a while to find anyone interested in attempting it. USGS Mount Everly

Poor Circulation Route. (Class 3-4)

The Poor Circulation Route climbs the peak's south face.

The Poor Circulation Route climbs the peak’s south face.

Based on John’s recon photo (see below), we identified the initial chute and started up it. At the top of the chute, we traversed to the right looking for a ramp shown in the photo. We followed an obvious ramp to the right. The ramp was a wide, grass wide, covered stroll for as far as it went but eventually it thinned. We climbed out of the ramp, scrambling steeply till we reached another ramp which traversed left. When this ramp cliffed out, we bouldered up a short wall that gave entrance to the upper gully. After another short bouldering wall, the angle started to ease back until at the very top, we confronted low-angle slabs. Normally these would be a piece of cake but they had a nice layer of undisturbed lichen that made slipping seem like a real possibility. Some slightly awkward underclings (the crack under the topmost block in this view is the undercling) got us onto the summit area,The final obelisk is the true summit. With about 1000′ of air on our left, we took turns scaling this 10-12 foot obstacle..

The initial Shoot. John Platt photo.

The initial chute. John Platt photo.

The Grassy Ramp.

The Grassy Ramp.

At the top of the chute, we traversed to the right looking for a ramp. John Platt Photo.

At the top of the chute, we traversed to the right looking for a ramp. John Platt Photo.

John, points out "At the very top of the gully, we were confronted with some low-angle slabs. Normally these would be a piece of cake but they had a nice layer of undisturbed lichen that made slipping seem like a real possibility. Some slightly awkward underclings (the crack under the topmost block in this view is the undercling) got us onto the summit flats." Johnn Platt Photo.

John, points out “At the very top of the gully, we were confronted with some low-angle slabs. Normally these would be a piece of cake but they had a nice layer of undisturbed lichen that made slipping seem like a real possibility. Some slightly awkward underclings (the crack under the topmost block in this view is the undercling) got us onto the summit flats.” Johnn Platt Photo.

Our route is shown in red on this photo. John Platt Photo

Our route is shown in red on this photo. John Platt Photo

John notes that “This was a cool climb, very exploratory with a really interesting, convoluted route (in honor of our average age of 58, we dubbed it the “Poor Circulation” route). Until we were 50′ below the summit, there was never a point that we knew we had it sewed up. And even then, the obelisk looked daunting.”

Check out John Platt’s Trip Report.

 

Climber Trip Reports

Mountain Range: Sawtooth Range

Year Climbed: 2011

Longitude: -115.06229   Latitude: 43.9949

Photos:

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