Elevation: 9,937 ft
This peak is not in the book but is referenced on page 215. Two routes are set out below and there is a discussion of the peak’s north ridge as a possible route. Use this link to read the new access route: North Smoky Dome Road Access Updated July 2018
North Smoky Dome rises 406 feet out of the high saddle it shares with Smoky Dome. Most people, me included, ignore this peak when they climb Smoky Dome. In my case, it was a hot day and the long climb of Smoky Dome and the broken talus on North Smoky Dome convinced me to head for the car. Nevertheless, this peak is an impressive mountain.
South Ridge, Class 2
The peak’s south ridge connect with Smokey Dome’s northeast ridge at at 9,531 saddle. The saddle can be reached by a long slog up the South Fork Soldier Creek [(A)(1.1) pages 216-217] or by descending down from Smoky Dome’s summit (it is 0.7 miles between the two summits), or by traversing across the peak’s east face from the road that climbs the peak’s north ridge (North Smoky Dome Road Access).
East Face, Class 2+
The east face is a complicated congolmeration of cliffs, talus fields and broken ribs. There are likely several lines that are climbable besides the one shown in the accompanying GPS track. Use this link to read the new access route: North Smoky Dome Road Access
The route shown makes a climbing traverse to a broken, rocky rib and then climbs the rib to the summit ridge north of the summit. Traverse the summit ridge north to a group of towers that blocks the route. Pass the first low tower on the west once on its south side more towers come in to view. The route climbs up and between the two towers on the right. Once past this point it is a quick walk to the summit.
North Ridge, Class?
I started up the peak’s north ridge in 2018. At the top of the first, Class 3, tower, the route ahead looked difficult and unquestionably time consuming. We aborted the ascent and climbed the east face instead. There are at least two more notches and broken towers blocking the route. The rock on these towers is blocky and forms some steep walls. There may be a Class 4 route over these obstacles but I suspect the terrain from my vantage point the climb would involve technical climbing. Please let me know if you climb this ridge.
USGS Smoky Dome