Mount Corruption

Elevation: 11,857 ft
Prominence: 1,675

Climbing and access information for this peak is found on page 282. There are two routes listed in the book. Expanding on this information you will find below the Northwest Gully/North Ridge Route set out in photos followed by photos of Pat McGrane’s Complete North Ridge Route. At the bottom of the page is Brett Sergenian’s trip report and GPS track for the southwest face route. Updated July 2018


Mount  Corruption is one of my favorite Idaho mountains and the 21st highest peak in the state. Back in 1992 when I climbed it, only Rick Baugher and I had shown any interest in what was then an unknown peak. Corruption sits well off the main crest of the Lost River Range and this remoteness adds to its allure. The route I climbed on this peak is one of the most varied routes I have climbed in the Lost River Range with a hidden route into a hanging valley, a huge talus slog and an ascending knife-edge ridge with a Class 4 crack near the summit. Corruption will test your stamina and your desire but its rewards will make it all worth while.

This 1934 photo by Lyman Marden of the USGS called Mount Corruption, Dudley Peak. The name never showed up on a map.

This 1934 photo by Lyman Marden of the USGS called Mount Corruption, Dudley Peak. The name never showed up on a map.

Northwest Gully/North Ridge, Class 4

This is the route set out in the book on page 282. Pat McGrane’s variation (below) avoids the tough talus scramble from the northwest gully to the top of the ridge. Neither, avoids the Class 4 climbing on the upper ridge. The crux of this route is a 20 foot, nearly vertical crack. Pat’s route avoided the chimney but still crossed Class 4 terrain.

This shot shows the approximate line I climbed on Corruption. From the top of the ridge cross over to the summit block and then work your way up the ridge. See the book for the details.

This shot shows the approximate line of the Northwest Gully/North Ridge, Class 4 that I climbed on Corruption. From the top of the ridge cross over to the summit block and then work your way up the ridge. See the book for the details.

You will find the slope leading to the ride top is tedious at best and too loose at worst but it is a scenic route.

You will find the slope leading to the ride top is tedious at best and too loose at worst but it is a scenic route.

The green line is Brett Sergenian’s GPS track for the Southwest Face Route. The redline is the approximate line of Northwest Gully/North Ridge route.

The green line is Brett Sergenian’s GPS track for the Southwest Face Route. The redline is the approximate line of Northwest Gully/North Ridge route.

Complete North Ridge/White Slab Route, Class 4

Pat McGrane climbed the entire north ridge joining the Northwest Gully/North Ridge at roughly 10,500 feet. Pat avoided the 20 foot crack that I climbed and utilized an exposed white slab on the west side of the ridge. His photos of the route follow.

Mount Corruption with the north ridge curving up on the left. Pat McGrane Photo

Mount Corruption with the north ridge curving up on the left. Pat McGrane Photo

The upper north ridge (with the route drawn in) viewed from roughly 10,500 feet. Pat McGrane Photo

The upper north ridge (with the route drawn in) viewed from roughly 10,500 feet. Pat McGrane Photo

Pat avoided climbing the 20 foot crack. He reports:  “I did not do the “20-ft crack” either. That crack is nearly vertical and begins 30 feet above a sloping ledge. A fall from it would be fatal. I opted for the easier white slab to the right.”

Pat avoided the 20 foot crack that I climbed and utilized an nearby exposed white slab (shown in this photo) that starts on the east side of the ridge and wraps around to the west side. Pat McGrane Photo

Pat avoided the 20 foot crack that I climbed and utilized an nearby exposed white slab (shown in this photo) that starts on the east side of the ridge and wraps around to the west side. Pat McGrane Photo

Abovr the white slab the Class 4 climbing continues. Pat McGrane Photo

Abovr the white slab the Class 4 climbing continues. Pat McGrane Photo

 

Southwest Face, Class 3 by Brett Sergenian 

At the end of the road I decided to head uphill to the cliff bands and then sidehill my way into the southwest slopes. I soon realized I probably should have attempted Mount Corruption a couple weeks earlier as there was barely any snow. Most of the first 3,000′ feet was on loose scree as most of the snow was gone. After having enough of the scree I decided to climb the cliff bands.  Luckily the cliff bands were not terribly steep so it was doable with only using my right for support.  To the left was more scree which I planned to take on the descent.  After four long hours I finally reached the summit after slowly navigating the cliff bands. It was slow going on the way down as I could not swiftly head downhill on the scree and a few cliff bands.

The green line is Brett Sergenian’s GPS track for the Southwest Face Route. Brett’s GPS registered 5.1 miles amd 5,222 of elevation gain.

The green line is Brett Sergenian’s GPS track for the Southwest Face Route. Brett’s GPS registered 5.1 miles amd 5,222 of elevation gain.

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Finally, a few photos of this beautiful peak.

Mount Corruption from Apex Peak.

Mount Corruption from Apex Peak.

Mount Corruption from the col between Leatherman Peak and Bad Rock Peak. The route is not visible in this photo.

Mount Corruption from the col between Leatherman Peak and Bad Rock Peak. The route is not visible in this photo.

The toward Mount Church and the main Lost River Range crest.

The toward Mount Church and the main Lost River Range crest.

The view toward the Triple Peak Mount Brietenbach Pass.

The view toward the Triple Peak Mount Brietenbach Pass.

Mount Corruption from Peak 11967 to the west.

Mount Corruption from the west.

Mountain Range: Lost River Range

Year Climbed: 1992

First Ascent Information:

  • First Ascent Year: 1992
  • Season: Summer
  • Route: Southwest Face
  • Party: Rick Baugher
  • Other First Ascent: Northwest Gully/North Ridg
  • Year: 1992
  • Season: Fall
  • Party: Tom Lopez and Dana Hansen

Longitude: -113.6705   Latitude: 44.11443

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