Missing Eleveners and New Routes by Judi Steciak and Carl Hamke

The second ascent team, Carl Hamke and Judi Steciak.

Editor’s Note. Carl Hamke and Judi Steciak recently became the third and fourth climbers to summit all of Idaho’s peaks exceeding 11,000 feet. George Reinier, Johnny Roache were the first climbers to summit all of these peaks while Judi is the first woman to accomplish this exceedingly difficult task. The short article below summerizes their quest and lists the 11,000 foot peaks that are not set forth in the book. The peaks identified below and the routes climbed by Judi and Carl were added to this site courtesy of Carl and Judi. Enjoy!


Tom Lopez’s guidebook for exploring Idaho mountains hits a good balance between detailed directions to trailheads and route descriptions that allow you to enjoy the thrill of discovery. Although many hundreds of mountains are included, peak baggers wanting to summit Idaho’s highest mountains might be interested in learning more about the seventeen peaks (with ~300 ft. prominence) between 11,000 and 11,999 feet that are missing from the 2nd edition, plus a few easier routes on eleveners that are in the book.

It only fair to give a hint of the effort involved in summiting all 114 eleveners.  The peaks are spread out over four counties (Beaverhead, Blaine, Custer, and Lemhi) and seven different mountain ranges (Lost River (41 summits), Pioneer (30), Boulder (17), Lemhi (9), White Cloud (8), Whiteknob (5), and Beaverhead (4)). Most of the peaks are hikes or scrambles, but ten have Class 4 routes and one has no other option than a Class 5 route.

In the process of reaching all those summits, we accumulated approximately 374,000 feet of elevation gain.  This includes the 11,000 vertical feet we gained in one two-day weekend (we were younger then).  Note that the route from the Khumba base camp to the summit of Mount Everest shares the same elevation gain – albeit with higher starting and ending elevations.  We covered at least 820 miles on the ground and spent at least 800 hours walking (you do the arithmetic: that’s only about a one mile-per-hour average).  We found 23 peaks and/or routes for which we had no hard-copy information.  It took us 16 years from start to finish (along with many other higher and lower summits as well as ski trips, white water rafting…).  We climbed as many as three eleveners in one day.  We needed three tries to summit some of the peaks, due to thunderstorms, wildfire smoke, and not having the right gear in one case.  We had to climb one twelver twice in one day to reach an elevener.  We found zero peaks with maintained trails to their summits.  Trailheads were lonely places.  We never met anyone on a summit and rarely met anyone in the valleys.  We became addicted to the joy of exploration and discovery, and enchanted by the solitude, wildlife, wildflowers, pristine wilderness, and achingly beautiful vistas.  Beware!

 

The Missing Eleveners
Peak Elevation(ft.) Range Route YDS
Peak 11,312 11,312 Boulder W ridge 3
North Ryan 11,296 Boulder NW ridge 2
Peak 11,161 11,161 Boulder SE face to S ridge 3
South Glassford 11,160 Boulder S face 3
Peak 11,087 11,087 Boulder S face to E ridge 2
Paragon Peak 11,781 Lost River W ridge from Dry Creek 4
Peak 11,189 11,189 Lost River E ridge 2
Merriam Pinnacle 11,160 Lost River NW face to NE ridge 4
True Grit 11,100 Lost River NW face 5.3-4
Peak 11,090 11,090 Lost River W face to NW ridge 3
Gabriels Horn 11,641 Pioneer SW ridge 3-4
Andromeda 11,600 Pioneer SE face 3
Recess Peak 11,560 Pioneer NW face to W ridge 3
Rearing Stallion 11,280 Pioneer W ridge 3-4
Boulder Lake Peak 11,080 Pioneer SW ridge 4
Howard Peak 11,020 Pioneer W face 3-4
Lonesome Lake Peak 11,302 White Cloud W ridge 2

 

Missing Route Descriptions on Eleveners
Peak Elevation(ft.) Range Route YDS
Peak 11,458 11,458 Boulder SE couloir to S ridge 3
Petros 11,050 Lost River S face from Christian Gulch 2
The Box 11,305 Pioneer W face 3
WCP-10 11,102 White Cloud NW face to E ridge 4

 

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